Warning to those who want to track their cars with stock fluid. - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

White_SS/RS · 09-14-2015, 11:46 AM

I've used ATE type 200 fluid without issue. It's under $20 for a liter, so changing it out doesn't break the bank.

KaBoom1701 · 09-14-2015, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

use Motul 600 or equivalent or Castrol SRF ($$) and enjoy the higher boiling temps and nice firm brake pedal. Motul 600 is a great fluid for sure and is always consistent. A Motive power bleeder helps the procedure go smoothly and with little fuss.

+1.

Dropspeed · 09-14-2015, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

use Motul 600 or equivalent or Castrol SRF ($$) and enjoy the higher boiling temps and nice firm brake pedal. Motul 600 is a great fluid for sure and is always consistent. A Motive power bleeder helps the procedure go smoothly and with little fuss.

This ^......

Changing brake fluid from a DOT3 to a DOT4 should be the FIRST thing any car enthusiast that plans to track a car should do.

The OP said "change to a racing fluid or at least DOT4". To clarify the majority of DOT4 are "racing fluids". As Stephen12ZL1 stated above, Motul or SRF are the go to standard for club racers and "real" race teams...Use the SRF if the pocketbook allows.

Norm Peterson · 09-15-2015, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

I've used ATE type 200 fluid without issue. It's under $20 for a liter, so changing it out doesn't break the bank.

I've used that stuff on the track, too, but only up to the first couple of introductory days. It gives away about 60° worth of dry boiling point to the RBF600 that isn't all that much more expensive, and I'm not at all sure it wouldn't be the easily-avoided weak link once you've gotten faster and stepped past entry-level track pads. I know I wouldn't use it with XP10's & up, or Hawk's DTC 50 and higher. XP8's and HT-10's . . . maybe.

Norm

Destructo09 · 09-15-2015, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

I've used that stuff on the track, too, but only up to the first couple of introductory days. It gives away about 60° worth of dry boiling point to the RBF600 that isn't all that much more expensive, and I'm not at all sure it wouldn't be the easily-avoided weak link once you've gotten faster and stepped past entry-level track pads. I know I wouldn't use it with XP10's & up, or Hawk's DTC 50 and higher. XP8's and HT-10's . . . maybe.

Norm

Agree, the Motul isn't that expensive and is better. That's what I used with my DTC70/60s this past weekend at VIR-F and had no issues at all.

White_SS/RS · 09-15-2015, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

I've used that stuff on the track, too, but only up to the first couple of introductory days. It gives away about 60° worth of dry boiling point to the RBF600 that isn't all that much more expensive, and I'm not at all sure it wouldn't be the easily-avoided weak link once you've gotten faster and stepped past entry-level track pads. I know I wouldn't use it with XP10's & up, or Hawk's DTC 50 and higher. XP8's and HT-10's . . . maybe.

Norm

Ive been using it for years through thousands of track miles with ST43 pads without issue.

JOHNSONROD · 09-16-2015, 01:28 PM

i use the ate. its what the race guys used when i first started tracking so ive just always used it. most people use the motul now days. i may try it when i run out of ate stock if its not much more expensive. i look at the dry number only because my fluid is never in there long enough to get any moisture. i think what matters is fresh new fluid. as long as its a high temp dot 4 it should be fine. i go no more than 4 track days between sucking out the old fluid and putting in all new fluid all through. i dont pump old fluid through my lines ever. its the same approach i take to oil. i buy the mobil 1 15 w 50 in the 5 quart jugs at wal mart when its on sale and i change oil a lot. i get the mobil 1 5 w 30 at sams when i need it for early spring winter and late fall runs. some guys buy that expensive stuff and run it all season. i know that fresh mobil one is better than cooked 20 dollar a quarts oil.

Bretts · 09-16-2015, 03:55 PM

when switching over to motul 600 is it compatible with the factory fluid?

Norm Peterson · 09-16-2015, 05:51 PM

It is compatible - DOT 3, DOT4 , and DOT 5.1 are all mutually compatible - but to get the benefit of the higher boiling point you'll need to chase as much of the OE fluid out as you can. Normal bleeding techniques won't get all of the old fluid out of the ABS HCU, but at least any fluid trapped in there isn't going to see caliper temperatures. I suspect a Tech II or similar scan tool can work the ABS and get the old fluid out of there as well.

DOT 5 is the odd duck that isn't compatible with any other brake fluid, not even DOT 5.1 like you might first think. But you don't want 5.1 stuff in an ABS system anyway.

Norm

09-14-2015, 11:46 AM	#15
White_SS/RS Drives: 14 1LE Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 1,567	I've used ATE type 200 fluid without issue. It's under $20 for a liter, so changing it out doesn't break the bank. __________________ LMS Engineering

09-16-2015, 03:55 PM	#22
Bretts SS Drives: 2015 2ss rs Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Alberta Posts: 911 View My Garage	when switching over to motul 600 is it compatible with the factory fluid? __________________ CCW sp16a track set, BTR stage 3 cam and kooks longtubes with high flow catsLocks@7.5 degrees castor and radius arm inserts, Ride Tech 2coilovers JDP upper control arm bushings BMR lower knuckle bushing Bo White throttle body3.91 gears Spohn del-sphere toe link and trailing arms Prothane subframe bushings

09-16-2015, 05:51 PM	#23
Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter Drives: 08 Mustang GT, 19 WRX Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Eastern Time Zone Posts: 6,990	It is compatible - DOT 3, DOT4 , and DOT 5.1 are all mutually compatible - but to get the benefit of the higher boiling point you'll need to chase as much of the OE fluid out as you can. Normal bleeding techniques won't get all of the old fluid out of the ABS HCU, but at least any fluid trapped in there isn't going to see caliper temperatures. I suspect a Tech II or similar scan tool can work the ABS and get the old fluid out of there as well. DOT 5 is the odd duck that isn't compatible with any other brake fluid, not even DOT 5.1 like you might first think. But you don't want 5.1 stuff in an ABS system anyway. Norm __________________ '08 GT coupe 5M (the occasional track toy) '19 WRX 6M (the family sedan . . . seriously)

09-16-2015, 01:28 PM	#21
JOHNSONROD Drives: 62 Chevy & 2021 1SS/1LE manual Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Kentucky Posts: 893	i use the ate. its what the race guys used when i first started tracking so ive just always used it. most people use the motul now days. i may try it when i run out of ate stock if its not much more expensive. i look at the dry number only because my fluid is never in there long enough to get any moisture. i think what matters is fresh new fluid. as long as its a high temp dot 4 it should be fine. i go no more than 4 track days between sucking out the old fluid and putting in all new fluid all through. i dont pump old fluid through my lines ever. its the same approach i take to oil. i buy the mobil 1 15 w 50 in the 5 quart jugs at wal mart when its on sale and i change oil a lot. i get the mobil 1 5 w 30 at sams when i need it for early spring winter and late fall runs. some guys buy that expensive stuff and run it all season. i know that fresh mobil one is better than cooked 20 dollar a quarts oil.