[KLG]

The first thing I did to help the trunk lighting was to install a light with 6 downward firing LEDs.

This really brightened up the trunk area.

Well it was bright until I raised the trunk divider, then the remaining trunk area had almost no lighting.

To improve the situation, I installed two flush mount bolt LEDs into the trunk cover, under the bulged area behind the tail lights, one on each side, facing downward and wired into the existing trunk light wiring harness.

Plenty of light now even with the trunk divider raised!

[Gunkk]

Nice work!

Please share the part numbers and vendors used for lights and wiring harness.

[GroundhogSS]

Looks good. I'm needing something like that.

[FASTNUF]

Originally Posted by KLG

The first thing I did to help the trunk lighting was to install a light with 6 downward firing LEDs.

This really brightened up the trunk area.

Well it was bright until I raised the trunk divider, then the remaining trunk area had almost no lighting.

To improve the situation, I installed two flush mount bolt LEDs into the trunk cover, under the bulged area behind the tail lights, one on each side, facing downward and wired into the existing trunk light wiring harness.

Plenty of light now even with the trunk divider raised!

Agreed, very nicely done. I added an LED strip plugged into the original light socket and stuck it opposite side of original light so I have light when the divider is up or down...like your much better! Please share part #s and vendors, would rather use your design.

[JeffFox]

OP-very well done!

[KLG]

Thanks for the positive feedback and compliments!

Now I wish I had taken a few photos during the installation, oh well.

Anyway, I used two OZNIUM flush mount bolt LEDs. Aluminum housing. 11 mm diameter. Cool white (12,000k according to OZNIUM, looks more like 6,000k to me). Comes with 3 feet of 22 awg wire which is enough with a little to spare.

I purchased the OZNIUM bolt LEDs from Amazon.

To cut a hole in the trim panel, I used a 7/16” (which is close to 11 mm) wood cutting bit. The hole position has some leeway, but, it needs to be far enough away from the tail light mounting to clear yet not be so far out that the LED will not flush mount due to the curvature of the trim panel.

Before installing the bolt LEDs, I cut the wires on each LED leaving about 5 inches attached to the LED. On the black wire, I attached a ring terminal for the ground. I attached the ground to one of the tail light housing mounting studs using the existing nut and a star-washer to get a bite for the ground through the paint. On the red wire, I attached a male quick connect (pin-type). The ability to disconnect the LED near the mounting point is necessary for removing the trunk trim panel in the future and for installing or replacing the bolt LED. Whatever terminations you use, just remember it all has to fit thru the mounting nuts for the bolt LED.

When I pushed the bolt LED thru the hole I cut in the trim panel, I slipped a 7/16” fiber washer over the housing before installing the nuts to hold it in place. I believed the nuts would sink into the trim panel too much without the washer.

To get power to the bolt LEDs, I tapped into the existing trunk wiring harness about 4 inches or so before the connector for the stock trunk light. I stripped the insulation, soldered in the two red wires that I had cut from the bolt LEDs, one to the driver side bolt LED and one to the passenger side. Taped it up and it still almost looked like factory work.

On each red wire I attached a female quick connect (pin type) for mating with the male quick connect at the bolt LED.

I ran each red wire thru 1/4” wire loom and ran this inside of the structural brace (same structural brace that the stock trunk light snaps in to). Plenty of room to run the loom and it keeps things neat. The structural brace has a hole right by the edge of the trim panel on both sides of the trunk, so I exited the brace there and it was a short run with the wire/loom over to each bolt LED.

--KLG--