12-15-2017, 01:57 PM | #15 |
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If you treat it well and not always have your pedal to the metal? The engines should last around 250k if not more. Though around that point I'm sure compression will drop due to wear. They're pretty good these days compared to old
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12-15-2017, 02:41 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2012 Camaro Convertible Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Wisconsin
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agree with everyone else. Unless your gas pedal is used like an ON/OFF light switch or highly modded 200,000 is a safe bet with almost any modern motor.
My wife is still chugging along in her 2003 Trailblazer with 191,000 and it still idles smooth and has good power. It's had a rough service life too, lots of 3 mile start and stop trips(to work), 2 of 3 kids learned to drive in it and took that on short trips. She also has a penchant for trees, poles, barricades and other things jumping out in front of her car. There's not one smooth corner anymore. But it chugs along like Christine |
12-15-2017, 05:57 PM | #17 |
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Drives: 2013 Hot Wheels Edition Camaro Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: West Virginia
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My 1999 s10 had the trusty 4.3 liter v-6. I put 326,000 miles on it, with pretty much just regular maintenance. I did switch out the old style poppet valve spider assembly for the newer spider injector setup. Other than that, no other engine trouble. . The v6 was still running fine when I decided to pull it and drop in a v8.
I'd leave it alone and not touch it. Like other people have said - if it ain't broke, don't fix it! |
12-15-2017, 08:57 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2015 BLK 1SS LS3 M6 NPP Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 212
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I'd leave it be since its running well as it is. It also has value at this point. I'd sell the long block an ls swapper, then drop in that 427 if i were in your shoes op.
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12-15-2017, 09:13 PM | #19 |
Drives: Savitar; The 500rwhp N/A Monster! Join Date: Aug 2016
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12-16-2017, 09:10 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro 1SS Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 103
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I installed cam & heads in my 01 Z28 (LS1) at 110k. It's over 230k now and still running well (knock on wood).
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12-17-2017, 09:22 AM | #21 |
old school chevy rodder
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,587
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1st you can only over hone the ls3 with its cast in cylinder walls .020 so if you want to use the same block its most likely about due to be over honed with new rings, or you could just use higher mileage oil and buy a new block for about $1400 bare for a ls3. Ls7 is about the same deal with cast in liners and it cant be over honed basically with its max at .005 so its a expensive POS for longevity actually ....read up
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/max-o...for-ls-blocks/ Frankly someday I will go iron block or DARTON etc.... screw this stuff, the old chevys I always fixed up...heck grandpa had a .060 over 327 with fuelie heads when I inherited his 65 impala..and it had like a million miles on the car.... I bought my short block looking all over ...finally got it from EBAY ; yup though Jerry at SAG performance/custom engine supply ;free shipping and the machinist Jerry knows his crap..... and I am old like dirt always built my own engines after machining price matters and things go up in price in summer........as everyone wants their project done to use in summer.... so a good winter project for performance shop that is slower than normal.... or a big undertaking and lots of tools to buy for one to study up themselves and experience..well you cant buy it in a can... High miles look to trunnions, oil pump not so easy things to worry about replacing, heck If you I would just start squirreling away parts..... major secret squirrel meetings...LOL And theres always crate engines complete from pan to intake for like $6500 up online..... my block came from Illinois to Wongs performance engineering.
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12-18-2017, 06:33 PM | #22 |
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Thanks again for the responses. You guys are a great bunch.
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