[rcoe]

Needing to get an alignment done to help with the new tires/wheels (19x11 305/30 & 19x12 335/30) and to also help during track days.

This is my sheet from 2 years ago, drove fine but on the track did notice the outsides of the front tires were seeing much more wear than the insides.



So I am bringing it to a shop that is more performance focused and I would like to tell him what set it at. I put maybe 4k a year on it street driving and usually try to hit 3 track days a year. Not looking for anything terribly aggressive.

I do have full BMR rear suspension but front is stock but the holes have been elongated to hopefully give a bit more camber. I am thinking I am going to need more neg. camber up front but anything else stand out?

Thanks

[dpevans]

When I take mine in next month I plan on -2.5 camber as the high performance manual suggest for the SS1LE. I also purchased a tire temp probe to monitor heat across the tire so I can make adjustment if needed.

[Dabjbr]

Max out front camber. Without modifying the struts, you’ll get a little more than -2. And it won’t have any adverse effect on the street. I’d go with less front toe too but know it’ll make the car darty/ faster turn in.

[WhiteMale]

Front toe should be closer to zero f/r. In the green which how i see it is in spec but its nit good enough and sone shops just wont take the time to get it there and since its green, thats all you get.

I think you can get 2 degrees on the front wo mods, just loosen and push out the bolts to disengage the splines and you can get it.

[rcoe]

Thanks going to shoot for 2.0 or a little more on the front and have him get the toe a little closer to zero. I did the grind on the struts and slightly elongated the slots so I am thinking 2.0 should be easy.

What about rear camber? Am I good at the -1.5?

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

I think you can get 2 degrees on the front wo mods, just loosen and push out the bolts to disengage the splines and you can get it.

Loosen the nuts. The splines prevent you from loosening the bolts. Agreed the key is to disengage the splines then push the top of the front wheels/tires to get more negative camber.

[SSEssence]

By loosening bolts and disengaging splines, I was able to get 2.7 front camber on both sides maxed out.

[rcoe]

Originally Posted by SSEssence

By loosening bolts and disengaging splines, I was able to get 2.7 front camber on both sides maxed out.

This is what I am hoping for, was going to get it done tomorrow but we are expecting a snowy mess so I put it off for a couple weeks. Kicker is it was 72 here to day and tomorrow we won't hit 30. Michigan sucks.

[That1guy_tim]

Originally Posted by rcoe

This is what I am hoping for, was going to get it done tomorrow but we are expecting a snowy mess so I put it off for a couple weeks. Kicker is it was 72 here to day and tomorrow we won't hit 30. Michigan sucks.

I feel your pain. I'm across the pond in Wi. 65 today.... High of 25 and snow tomorrow.

[rcoe]

Ended up getting -2.7 on the front with .09 toe. -1.7 rear with .12 toe.

Feels great on some twisty road around here, now waiting for the first track day in June.

The BMR spring gave it the perfect amount of drop.

[wakespeak]

Those are good specs. I get the best tire wear at COTA (every track is different) with -3.0. I tried -2.7 and too much outside wear. -3.2 and too much inside wear. Point is it varies but around -2.0 camber or slightly greater will give longer life for the tires at the track.

Rear always -2.0 and even wear.

0 deg toe front and rear for me. This will depend on how stiff your springs are. ZL1 1LE is stiff so not as much squat/dive..

[sr71bb]

Ok below is what I have used for about two years on both STREET and on TRACK (road racing). The key is to keep TOE IN TOE OUT fairly neutral especially on the front where you are running more camber.

Secondly, it helps ALOT to run 38 PSI on your street tires . I can get ABOUT 20K miles on my street tires with this set up .

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

it helps ALOT to run 38 PSI on your street tires . I can get ABOUT 20K miles on my street tires with this set up .

I tried this to stretch tire life on the stock SC3 tires that already had worn front inside edges and they corded in 500 miles of highway driving (with -2.8° front camber and 0° front toe). I could feel a big heat difference on the inside of the tire compared to the rest. Now I use 28psi cold which I believe allows a bigger front contact patch that causes less excess heat/wear on the inside front edges.

[sab123]

I went to an alignment shop, and they say that all they could get is -1.2 on on side and -1.3 on the other. They say they've disengaged the spline bolts, and also took out the bolts, had a look at them, and found them round, not cam-shaped. So I don't understand, is there some trick to getting to -2 degrees?


I wonder if maybe you can get more negative camber by getting the wheel in the air and pushing on it, or something like that?