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Old 04-11-2018, 07:48 AM   #43
SomeGeoffGuy

 
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I have a convertible and I have the midrange down all the way, and I still need it down more. Plus, the head unit has completely different sound character between when the top is up and down - the sound coming from the stereo changes without me changing the tone settings. It is like we can only change 10% of the range, but the car can change it the other 90%. I really think we need a subwoofer bad in the verts, my 5th gen with the sub behind the seat definitely sounded better.

-Geoff
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Old 04-11-2018, 08:15 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by pdrumans View Post
I keep my treble all the way up, Mids two or three above middle and bass at middle center. Fade one click to the rear. Sounds a little less front heavy for me. I would rather feel surrounded by the music, than feel like its all in front of me.
Mine is real close to this. Treble 1 click from maxed. Mids dead even. Bass 2 clicks down from center. Fade 1 click to the rear. I listen to mostly metal/hard rock, usually loud for reference.
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:32 AM   #45
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My solution: TAKE OUT THE SHITTY BOSE SYSTEM and replace with upgraded speakers, amps, subwoofer, and sound processor
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Old 04-13-2018, 01:16 PM   #46
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Surprisingly this helped me out a lot. I was under the old school train of thought that you manually set the balance and fade to account for distance from speakers. Duh, bose already accounted for this. Moving the balance & fade back to center really made it sound much clearer.

Turned the treble from +4 to +2
Mid from +2 to 0
Bass from +4 to +2

Sounds all around better and can go louder before sounding distorted.
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Old 04-13-2018, 01:34 PM   #47
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I have to cut it down to a little more than halfway down the slider. Otherwise it sounds like a cheap boom box. Can’t imagine raising the bass in this system.
I'm about to put mine back on the road since spring may have finally sprung up here in New England, so I'll check my settings again. Maybe try what you like.
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Old 04-14-2018, 05:14 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by drfeelgood View Post
My solution: TAKE OUT THE SHITTY BOSE SYSTEM and replace with upgraded speakers, amps, subwoofer, and sound processor
Normally I would, but I like the sound of the exhaust and the noise cancellation that goes with it. I think if I could add a sub, then I would get the sound I wanted with the stock system mostly intact. I needed two things to happen before buying a sub - the first one happened with the NAV-TV controller to get a clean signal ahead of the amp. Now waiting for a vendor to come out with a sub box for the verts. Any time guys!

-Geoff
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Old 04-19-2018, 12:44 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy View Post
Normally I would, but I like the sound of the exhaust and the noise cancellation that goes with it. I think if I could add a sub, then I would get the sound I wanted with the stock system mostly intact. I needed two things to happen before buying a sub - the first one happened with the NAV-TV controller to get a clean signal ahead of the amp. Now waiting for a vendor to come out with a sub box for the verts. Any time guys!

-Geoff
not sure what you mean, I have the Nav-TV M650GM, and a full aftermarket system , and still have use of my noise cancellation and exhaust. If it's done correctly, you don't lose any of that. Bose makes systems for car that range from absolute garbage to decent, but never good. This system falls somewhere towards garbage. especially for the convertible. I added a three way front stage with tweeters, 2.7' midrange, and 6.5" and the sound is night and day different when the top is done. Loud, clean sound, with zero distortion at max volume.

Most of us that have installed subs in the convertible have gone with a custom box. I saw someone use a box where the top folds down, I have my amplifiers and sound processor there in a custom setup.
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Old 04-19-2018, 10:08 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by drfeelgood View Post
not sure what you mean, I have the Nav-TV M650GM, and a full aftermarket system , and still have use of my noise cancellation and exhaust. If it's done correctly, you don't lose any of that. Bose makes systems for car that range from absolute garbage to decent, but never good. This system falls somewhere towards garbage. especially for the convertible. I added a three way front stage with tweeters, 2.7' midrange, and 6.5" and the sound is night and day different when the top is done. Loud, clean sound, with zero distortion at max volume.

Most of us that have installed subs in the convertible have gone with a custom box. I saw someone use a box where the top folds down, I have my amplifiers and sound processor there in a custom setup.
Yea the M650GM is what I was referring to. Also, I don't think you have the noise cancellation anymore - it is generated inside the Bose Amp and plays out of the four large stock speakers. It might not be that bad without it, I have just always had it and I am not ready to part with it. My 5th gen was fine around town, but if you were going up a hill at 70 mph on the freeway, the drone was terrible. I need to see how bad it is before I take that plunge. Maybe it will be better with an A8 too, my last car was M6 so you stayed in 6th gear on the freeway. The A8 might downshift on the grades and ease the drone that way.

I am holding out hope that someone will make a box that I can just drop in. There were a couple of them for the last gen, one from JL and one from you-know-who (initials S T). I think someone will make one eventually. No hurry, I am going to milk every mile out of my bumper to bumper warranty. It's not up until January 2020, so I still have time to wait!

-Geoff
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Old 04-20-2018, 10:48 AM   #51
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I dont have a problem at all with how the bose system sounds. What makes the system sound like garbage to me is all the plastic that rattles due to the speakers.

Could you spend 2k and get a much better sounding system? sure. But what's the point when you have to redesign the car's interior and add a hundred lbs of sound deadening to make any improvement? Hell, the switches on the drivers side door make more rattle noise than basically any of the other plastic parts in the front of the car and fixing that requires you to either take the switches apart and add some kind of wax to keep the plastic buttons from vibrating or taping the entire top of the switch down to keep them from vibrating. Adding weight isn't a good option either as that just negates a very important reason for picking a 6th gen over the 5th.

And if you're just gonna be streaming music - there's no point in hating on the bose. You can make crap music sound good with a good enough system, but the bose is hardly bad at doing that. And you're not likely going to convince people who are happy listening to music that's been re-encoded in lossy formats 4 times on ear buds that their bose sounds like garbage.

edit: i keep the treble and bass neutral i believe. The fade is like mid-way to rear. I feel like the default neutral settings make the rear speakers impossible to even hear. So i moved the fade until it balanced so that i hear the fronts and rear equally. I listen to mostly symphonic metal and goth metal at a volume that's about 80% of max.
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:34 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by cellsafemode View Post
Hell, the switches on the driver's side door make more rattle noise than basically any of the other plastic parts in the front of the car and fixing that requires you to either take the switches apart and add some kind of wax to keep the plastic buttons from vibrating or taping the entire top of the switch down to keep them from vibrating.
I have fixed switch rattles on several cars using adhesive backed felt pads, typically a dark color like brown. These pads are usually up to 2 mm thick. I use a razor to shave them down to about 1 mm. Then use a thin hobby knife, putty knife, or palette knife to position the pad on the side or sides of the switch actuator. Sometimes half a pad is all you need. Just enough to fill the space and keep the switch toggles from rattling. This has consistently worked for me and is invisible if done right.
I used to take the switches apart to apply the pads. But I found it is pretty easy to get them in place without taking anything apart.
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:12 PM   #53
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I have fixed switch rattles on several cars using adhesive backed felt pads, typically a dark color like brown. These pads are usually up to 2 mm thick. I use a razor to shave them down to about 1 mm. Then use a thin hobby knife, putty knife, or palette knife to position the pad on the side or sides of the switch actuator. Sometimes half a pad is all you need. Just enough to fill the space and keep the switch toggles from rattling. This has consistently worked for me and is invisible if done right.
I used to take the switches apart to apply the pads. But I found it is pretty easy to get them in place without taking anything apart.
There's enough vertical surface for these pads to stay stuck where you place them? Something like this makes me think as soon as it gets hot, the pads will slide out of place. If it's been working for more than a few months for you after applying it, then it's definitely something i'd be interested in looking into. Though, i'd imagine you're using a specific brand - I doubt something from walmart is going to stand up to automotive use for long.
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Old 04-21-2018, 03:06 PM   #54
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There's enough vertical surface for these pads to stay stuck where you place them? Something like this makes me think as soon as it gets hot, the pads will slide out of place.
I had them in place for close to 10 years in my Saab 93. Once they are in place, there is always slight pressure against the adjacent switch or plastic divider, depending on how the switch unit is designed. I always had to shave them thinner to get the resistance right. Never had them slide out of position.
The ones I used I got at either ACE or Home Depot.
Felt Gard (by shephard) 75 count 3/8" (10 mm) self-adhesive felt circles medium duty. Item # 007528/9949. Look dark brown to me. You need a sharp single edge razor to shave them. I did that while still on the adhesive backing. Sometimes I would cut the disc in half. You just need something big enough to fill the thin space and not stick out. Just one pad or half pad per side.
This is the tool I always used to move them into position, something leftover from my model building days:
https://www.micromark.com/Mini-Putty-Knife
You could probably make a good-enough tool from an old credit card or plastic coffee can lid. Need something thin enough to get it in there and move it into position, but rigid enough to stick it in place. Guitar pick would work too.
Much easier than taking door panels off and getting to switch units that way. You will end up finding more places to slide them in, like the hinge areas on sunglasses holders
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Old 04-25-2018, 12:27 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by cellsafemode View Post
I dont have a problem at all with how the bose system sounds. What makes the system sound like garbage to me is all the plastic that rattles due to the speakers.

Could you spend 2k and get a much better sounding system? sure. But what's the point when you have to redesign the car's interior and add a hundred lbs of sound deadening to make any improvement? Hell, the switches on the drivers side door make more rattle noise than basically any of the other plastic parts in the front of the car and fixing that requires you to either take the switches apart and add some kind of wax to keep the plastic buttons from vibrating or taping the entire top of the switch down to keep them from vibrating. Adding weight isn't a good option either as that just negates a very important reason for picking a 6th gen over the 5th.

And if you're just gonna be streaming music - there's no point in hating on the bose. You can make crap music sound good with a good enough system, but the bose is hardly bad at doing that. And you're not likely going to convince people who are happy listening to music that's been re-encoded in lossy formats 4 times on ear buds that their bose sounds like garbage.

edit: i keep the treble and bass neutral i believe. The fade is like mid-way to rear. I feel like the default neutral settings make the rear speakers impossible to even hear. So i moved the fade until it balanced so that i hear the fronts and rear equally. I listen to mostly symphonic metal and goth metal at a volume that's about 80% of max.
clearly music is subjective. some may think the bose sounds good, but imo, it does not. The imaging is poor. The bass rolls off at higher volumes, the system distorts at high volumes. It is by no means a decent setup.

I like music loud and clean, this system doesn't do that. I listen to Jazz, classical, rap, hip hop, rock, pop, pretty much everything except country music. This factory setup does not excel at all music genres.

But, I am also probably the only person on this forum that listens to FLAC in my vehicles. The Nav Tv M650-GM allows digital output directly from the headunit. Combined with my Audison H8, Audison BitPlayHD, and digital amplifiers, even without adding 100 lbs of sound deadener, my system sounds 100 x better than the stock BOSE system. The BitPlay plays FLAC via the hard drive or USB.
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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Old 04-25-2018, 12:32 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy View Post
Yea the M650GM is what I was referring to. Also, I don't think you have the noise cancellation anymore - it is generated inside the Bose Amp and plays out of the four large stock speakers. It might not be that bad without it, I have just always had it and I am not ready to part with it. My 5th gen was fine around town, but if you were going up a hill at 70 mph on the freeway, the drone was terrible. I need to see how bad it is before I take that plunge. Maybe it will be better with an A8 too, my last car was M6 so you stayed in 6th gear on the freeway. The A8 might downshift on the grades and ease the drone that way.

I am holding out hope that someone will make a box that I can just drop in. There were a couple of them for the last gen, one from JL and one from you-know-who (initials S T). I think someone will make one eventually. No hurry, I am going to milk every mile out of my bumper to bumper warranty. It's not up until January 2020, so I still have time to wait!

-Geoff
The Bose amp is still installed. The wires carrying signal leaving the bose were cut, and tied off. And the amps connect to those wires (post Bose Amp) and is sending signals to the rest of the speakers. We realized early in the install that we had to keep the factory Amp plugged in as a lot of system information runs through there , including the ANC system. But yes, noise cancellaion is still working. I have heard an incorrectly installed system where noise cancellation was disabled, and the car sounds very different.
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'17 White ZL1 A10 Convertible - TM ported TB - RotoFab CAI - 2.3" griptech upper pulley - Kooks 1 7/8" Headers with High Flow Cats - Borla S-type Catback - Audio Overhaul - NavTV M650-GM - 20" BlackDiForza- Michelin Pilot Sport4S - Tuned at BRC Raceworks (606rwhp/675trq)

'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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