[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Lehmancamaro

Hi Ted, I went yesterday to the dyno and I think I was doing good, but after seen this build and numbers I'm not sure now... I did 662whp my mods are LTH,rotofab, lt4 low and high side plus lt4 injectors with .80mm pulley and 100oct. Are this good numbers? Also my tuner told me that I need now to program my transmission TCM to gain pass those number! Any recommendations and what cam you recommend to pass the 710-720whp

You need our cam package to get you to our numbers.

Ted.

[L78toLT1]

Hey Ted, What results would you expect from this package with your smooth idle blower cam? My next phase will probably include the lT4 high side stuff and one of your cam packages. If I decide to pull the motor to do the cam, I'll probably add forged pistons to the mix just for peace of mind.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

Hey Ted, What results would you expect from this package with your smooth idle blower cam? My next phase will probably include the lT4 high side stuff and one of your cam packages. If I decide to pull the motor to do the cam, I'll probably add forged pistons to the mix just for peace of mind.

Same Same.once the cam is big enough the blower is in charge anyway.

I have done mostly rough idle due to customer demand but we did do 1 smooth idle and it made 749 RWHP.

Ted.

[laynlo15]

Those are good numbers in my opinion. Mine makes about 713 running similar mods and I run VP109 and meth/water injection. Those numbers with slicks and skinnies will put you deep in the 10s at over 135.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Those are good numbers in my opinion. Mine makes about 713 running similar mods and I run VP109 and meth/water injection. Those numbers with slicks and skinnies will put you deep in the 10s at over 135.

Thanks, how is your project coming along?

[L78toLT1]

Ted, If you haven't already figured this out, I'm Jim from Georgia. You recently finished remote tuning my car for the 2nd time after some confusion (on me) regarding the absence of a flex fuel sensor on my car.
I like cam chop as much as the next guy, but chop is all I've ever known on past builds. I sort of like the civilized approach of forced induction and fairly smooth cam. A little lope would not be objectionable though. What is the normal service life for valve train hardware on your kits? I'm sure it's markedly better than the '80's tech stuff I am familiar with.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

Ted, If you haven't already figured this out, I'm Jim from Georgia. You recently finished remote tuning my car for the 2nd time after some confusion (on me) regarding the absence of a flex fuel sensor on my car.
I like cam chop as much as the next guy, but chop is all I've ever known on past builds. I sort of like the civilized approach of forced induction and fairly smooth cam. A little lope would not be objectionable though. What is the normal service life for valve train hardware on your kits? I'm sure it's markedly better than the '80's tech stuff I am familiar with.

Thank you for your business and the clarification.

Our cams are geared toward longevity and it really depends on how the car is used.

If the car is raced every weekend you can expect 1-2 year intervals on valve springs.

If the car is used as a commuter car I would suggest replacing valve springs at 50K

I know you will fall somewhere in between.

Ted.

[laynlo15]

Hum, rear seal is an issue right now. Ted is right, switch the cam and your stellar plus really fast for sure.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

It really comes down to the combination and the tune, Yes I feel the stock engines can handle a lot more than they get credit for.


Ted.

Ted, If I were to add the LT4 high side, what dia pulley could I run on the stock cam & what rwhp would I see on 93? Would I need the voltage booster for the low side pump? Would this combination on the stock short block be safe for 1/2 miles & road courses?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

Ted, If I were to add the LT4 high side, what dia pulley could I run on the stock cam & what rwhp would I see on 93? Would I need the voltage booster for the low side pump? Would this combination on the stock short block be safe for 1/2 miles & road courses?

The 93 octane will be your limiter on how much boost you can run.

For 1/2 mile and road coarse stuff I would suggest you run some race fuel for engine protection. Typically 5 gallons of 100 or 104 unleaded added to your tank will give you the protection you need.

We have made 600 RWHP on 93 pump gas 9-10 psi boost for street or drag use.

Ted.

[Razor427]

Ted, I’m doing the LT4 conversion with the 2.3 pulley,dry rotofab, LTH’s, full LT4 fuel system, JMS Bap, and your cam. Would I be able to get to 700whp?

Ray

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Razor427

Ted, I’m doing the LT4 conversion with the 2.3 pulley,dry rotofab, LTH’s, full LT4 fuel system, JMS Bap, and your cam. Would I be able to get to 700whp?

Ray

93 octane I see 690-700 RWHP in your future.

[L78toLT1]

Ted, I've got probably 500 miles since installing my blower and I'm already itching to do a little more wrenching....it's a disease that i managed to keep in check for 20 years while raising my girls, but it's now back stronger than ever! I'll be calling to discuss the details but thought i would start the discussion here for the benefit of others.

I'm going to at a minimum add the lt4 high side fuel components and smaller upper pulley. I am debating on whether to install the blower cam kit now also or save that for the next phase. Can you answer these questions to help with my decision?
1. I'm assuming that i will be right at 600 rwhp with thesr mods on 93 with the stock cam?
2. I assume adding the cam will put me right at 700 on 93?
3. If i do the cam i.e. basically the same package you installed on the vert, and we remote tune as before, are you comfortable that my stock pistons/ring gap will be ok?
4. For a m6 guy, working without a lift, what is your recommendation on how to do the cam install? Motor in or out?
5. if i do the drop in pistons, can i truly just pull the pistons, press on the new ones, set the ring gaps and reinstall? Should the rod bolts be replaced? What about the bearings? I assume i will need to do a lght hone (I have 14k miles on the motor)? I've read tons of opinions on this issue, I'd really like to hear yours.

[Lehmancamaro]

Thank you ted, I was thinking in order the rough idle cam. I have lt4 hpfp, what fuel lobe I should order?