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Old 07-20-2017, 08:13 AM   #1
mjk3888
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SOLVED: SS 1LE Front Clicking/Ticking Under Turning Loads

I actually just posted this in a response to a thread below but I figured I should make a thread so someone could more easily find this when searching.

I had this clicking issue myself. Took the car to the dealer for the TSB and they cleaned the hub and the noise went away for about a month and came back. I then decided to tackle fixing it myself. I pulled the wheels off and noticed there was surface rust where I could see the dealer had originally cleaned the surface. I'm guessing once the surface rust formed the sound clicking returned. I figured if I cleaned it and covered it with something to prevent rust it could solve the issue, but the rumors had been that some grease dots from original manufacturing had caused the clicking in the first place. Non the less I had an idea I wanted to try out, so I cleaned the mating surfaces and put a small dab of anti seize on a paper towel and thinly spread it until all the shiny mating surfaces were covered. You will also want to spread a small amount on the actual hub lip that sits inside the opening on the wheel. Once you have done this reinstall the wheel and torque to the proper specs. Yes its that simple. It has been several months of daily driving, at least 4 days of AutoXing, and an hour long HARD RUN through the mountains. Still no clicking sounds have returned.

A few notes...

If you also put anti seize on your wheel studs be sure to decrease your lugnut torque accordingly instead of 140. I did and have run several AutoX's since with 120 torque and had zero issues. CHECK WHEEL LUG TORQUE AFTER A FEW DAYS, just in case it has backed off some. I personally check my wheel torque before and after every AutoX event.

You will likely have some anti seize that will get squeezed out and on your first drive it will splatter on the wheel barrel. After the first few drives and once the wheels are re torqued wash the wheel barrels to get it out. It won't hurt anything being there but it just looks messy.

BTW this photo is of some other 5 lug wheel but you get the point. It will be very obvious where you need to spread the anti-seize.

Try it out and post back with results.
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Old 07-20-2017, 09:12 AM   #2
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I'll just add that for me, even after doing the "TSB" at home twice, the clicking came back. So after this last time, before removing and cleaning, I got out my torque wrench and the lugs had loosened some. I recommend after first torque and 50 miles or a few days of driving, re-torque.
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Old 07-20-2017, 09:28 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by DenverTaco07 View Post
I'll just add that for me, even after doing the "TSB" at home twice, the clicking came back. So after this last time, before removing and cleaning, I got out my torque wrench and the lugs had loosened some. I recommend after first torque and 50 miles or a few days of driving, re-torque.
Good idea. I haven't had that issue but I always re check torque after a few days. Always good to check periodically anyways.
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Old 07-20-2017, 10:48 AM   #4
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How thick did you apply the anti-seize that it came out onto the wheel barrell?

Based on your comments about using a paper towel to apply (thinking like about as thin as shoe polish) how did any excess come out? I know it is essentially a grease based graphite product. Maybe the heat?

Wonder if powdered graphite on the surfaces might work?

Might try that first to avoid the sling out.
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Old 07-20-2017, 12:36 PM   #5
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I had he same issue a few months back and tried the TSB on my own. It fixed it... although I think the real culprit was the wheel torque and not the mating surface.
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Old 07-20-2017, 03:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bub View Post
How thick did you apply the anti-seize that it came out onto the wheel barrell?

Based on your comments about using a paper towel to apply (thinking like about as thin as shoe polish) how did any excess come out? I know it is essentially a grease based graphite product. Maybe the heat?

Wonder if powdered graphite on the surfaces might work?

Might try that first to avoid the sling out.
Honestly it wasn't much. I was a little surprised by the sling out, but it was no hassle at all to wash off. Might even rinse off with a pressure washer. Graphite might work, but if it was me I would stick with the anti seize. It would be a lot more trouble to remove the wheels and try again than to just clean the sling out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slick3 View Post
I had he same issue a few months back and tried the TSB on my own. It fixed it... although I think the real culprit was the wheel torque and not the mating surface.
My wheel torque was correct and I still had lots of clicking noise.
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Old 07-21-2017, 07:46 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by mjk3888 View Post
If you also put anti seize on your wheel studs be sure to adjust your lugnut torque down to 120 instead of 140.
120 sounds high to me for this scenario. Typically, with a greased threaded fastener, you want to reduce your torque value by 25%, or in this case down to maximum 105 ft-lbs. 120 on a greased wheel stud is probably OK to apply a few times, but there's a chance that each time applying that torque permanently stretches the stud a tiny little bit just like a torque-to-yield fastener. Eventually, the stud will start necking which is the point where the stud no longer can react the clamp load to hold the wheel on. If you lose clamp load on your lug nuts, you're gonna have a bad time.

The safest thing to do is get the grease out of your threads (both stud and lug nut) and go back to 140 ft-lbs. That takes all the guess work out of making sure you aren't damaging your threads over time and that you're applying the right clamp load to hold the wheels on.
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:01 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
120 sounds high to me for this scenario. Typically, with a greased threaded fastener, you want to reduce your torque value by 25%, or in this case down to maximum 105 ft-lbs. 120 on a greased wheel stud is probably OK to apply a few times, but there's a chance that each time applying that torque permanently stretches the stud a tiny little bit just like a torque-to-yield fastener. Eventually, the stud will start necking which is the point where the stud no longer can react the clamp load to hold the wheel on. If you lose clamp load on your lug nuts, you're gonna have a bad time.

The safest thing to do is get the grease out of your threads (both stud and lug nut) and go back to 140 ft-lbs. That takes all the guess work out of making sure you aren't damaging your threads over time and that you're applying the right clamp load to hold the wheels on.
honestly I had only recently learned about reducing the torque with anti seize. This last time I had my wheels off I tried to not put any on the studs and I wiped off what I could from before, but I didn't brake clean it off or anything so I'm sure there was still some residual on there. That was my thinking for the 120. I felt comfortable with that number for my purposes, but I'll probably brake clean them next time and go back to 140.

Definitely a good point though. I'll remove the 120 from the original post.
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Old 07-21-2017, 09:11 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by mjk3888 View Post
honestly I had only recently learned about reducing the torque with anti seize. This last time I had my wheels off I tried to not put any on the studs and I wiped off what I could from before, but I didn't brake clean it off or anything so I'm sure there was still some residual on there. That was my thinking for the 120. I felt comfortable with that number for my purposes, but I'll probably brake clean them next time and go back to 140.

Definitely a good point though. I'll remove the 120 from the original post.
For sure! TBH, depending on how close to fastener yield the 140 torque spec is, 120 greased might be just fine. But, since I don't know for sure and am too lazy to get the info I need to know for sure, I prefer to err on the side of caution
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Old 07-23-2017, 01:44 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by mjk3888 View Post
Good idea. I haven't had that issue but I always re check torque after a few days. Always good to check periodically anyways.
Imo that is the solution. I take off my wheels when I clean the car anyway. Easier to clean the wheels and brake calipers better that way and retorque upon reinstallation. Easy peasy. Lol
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Old 07-23-2017, 01:45 PM   #11
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I had he same issue a few months back and tried the TSB on my own. It fixed it... although I think the real culprit was the wheel torque and not the mating surface.
Totally agree.
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:03 AM   #12
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Imo that is the solution. I take off my wheels when I clean the car anyway. Easier to clean the wheels and brake calipers better that way and retorque upon reinstallation. Easy peasy. Lol
If you think that is the solution explain why I still had clicking at my AutoX events when I set the wheel torque minutes before my runs? It may be a temporary fix, but I'm willing to bet the noise will return for you too and won't just be fixable by re setting the torque everytime.
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Old 07-31-2017, 08:17 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by mjk3888 View Post
If you think that is the solution explain why I still had clicking at my AutoX events when I set the wheel torque minutes before my runs? It may be a temporary fix, but I'm willing to bet the noise will return for you too and won't just be fixable by re setting the torque everytime.
From my understanding, the ticking noise comes from galvanic corrosion between the aluminum rim and steel brake rotor hub. Galvanic corrosion is happening here because of the contact of dissimilar metals. As corrosion on the surface builds, you eventually get to a point where the wheels make noise as they shift and flex against the brake rotors under load. Anti-seize will at least act as a lubricant and keep the sound from happening, but might also be helping prevent the galvanic corrosion altogether.

I couldn't say why this doesn't happen on all cars, though. Maybe has something to do with the wheel/rotor coating process variations?
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Old 08-02-2017, 06:14 AM   #14
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Sounds like something as simple as a paper gasket would stop the galvanic corrosion
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