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Old 02-06-2018, 09:13 AM   #15
Ryephile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sledgehammer70 View Post
Mainly looking for the best rotor to allow a bit more bite for drag, I do plan to track the car just after Spring, sop not sure what will be needed.
The rotor isn't going to change the mu (friction coefficient) of the setup, that's what the pad is for.
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Old 02-06-2018, 01:31 PM   #16
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The rotor isn't going to change the mu (friction coefficient) of the setup, that's what the pad is for.
+1, bite and friction characteristics are all in the pad. The rotor's job is to absorb and dissipate the heat generated from friction. All steel rotors should have similar friction properties. I personally suggest OEM rotors because they can handle the heating and cooling cycles from open track days slightly better over time vs. slotted (I would never recommend cross-drilled steel rotors), and have been a little better against corrosion than non-OEM flat-face rotors in my experience.

As a side note, for pad selection, I'd suggest looking for pads that have more linear stopping force vs. pedal pressure that can still lock the wheels up at full pedal force rather than something that has lots of initial bite. Can't modulate pressure and control braking as easily if you go from no braking torque to lots of braking torque with barely any pedal travel.
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Old 02-07-2018, 12:34 PM   #17
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Has the O.P. considered swapping in a set of 1LE brakes?
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Old 02-07-2018, 06:04 PM   #18
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I also kept warping stock rotors, I swapped to the Cquence Performance Slotted rotors and have had no issues no track since. they are noticeably heavier than the stock rotors so I imagine they are slightly more robust than the stock offerings but I am sure they are sacrificing a little bit of performance from the weight but in exchange you don't warp rotors. Plus the slotted just look the business.
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Old 02-08-2018, 08:09 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Camaroguy555 View Post
I also kept warping stock rotors, I swapped to the Cquence Performance Slotted rotors and have had no issues no track since. they are noticeably heavier than the stock rotors so I imagine they are slightly more robust than the stock offerings but I am sure they are sacrificing a little bit of performance from the weight but in exchange you don't warp rotors. Plus the slotted just look the business.
I didn't know anyone made slotted rotors that were heavier than OEM lol, but makes sense that they don't warp since they have more material to manage the heat. Did you by any chance weigh them to see the difference?
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Old 02-09-2018, 08:19 AM   #20
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I always hear people say that drilled/slotted rotors are worthless, yet Porsche, Ferrari and Lamborghini all put drilled iron rotors on their cars that are touted as being track worthy and they also offer carbon ceramic which are drilled as well.

Biggest reason for the negativeness on drilled rotors was people would buy the cheapest ones they could find and then bitch about the cracking between the holes.

Even though pad technology has improved over the years, drilled rotors still offer an advantage of allowing the out gassing to escape out from under the pad and allow the pad to stay on the rotor surface more evenly.

Part of the reason why if I was ever going to do a drilled/slotted rotor it would be from a high end brand, personally I am waiting for DBA to get something setup for the 1LE. I've had them in the past, they make a very high quality brake rotor.
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Old 02-09-2018, 08:33 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
I didn't know anyone made slotted rotors that were heavier than OEM lol, but makes sense that they don't warp since they have more material to manage the heat. Did you by any chance weigh them to see the difference?
They sure felt heavier than stock, I will weigh the slotted but I didn't keep the factory rotors for comparison. Someone else can when they do their first brake service.
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Old 02-09-2018, 08:34 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by TJay74 View Post
I always hear people say that drilled/slotted rotors are worthless, yet Porsche, Ferrari and Lamborghini all put drilled iron rotors on their cars that are touted as being track worthy and they also offer carbon ceramic which are drilled as well.

Biggest reason for the negativeness on drilled rotors was people would buy the cheapest ones they could find and then bitch about the cracking between the holes.

Even though pad technology has improved over the years, drilled rotors still offer an advantage of allowing the out gassing to escape out from under the pad and allow the pad to stay on the rotor surface more evenly.

Part of the reason why if I was ever going to do a drilled/slotted rotor it would be from a high end brand, personally I am waiting for DBA to get something setup for the 1LE. I've had them in the past, they make a very high quality brake rotor.
If you search I believe DBA does make replacement rings for the 1LE, I saw a thread that someone had done them. About half of the cost of OEM replacement.
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Old 02-11-2018, 12:30 AM   #23
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I don't think you'll get better stopping power with the stock caliper/pad size... assuming the same pad material. I like racing brake stuff because the rotors are two-piece and noticeably lighter than stock. Had them on my old CTS-V and bought a complete set for my 135i. They're not cheap though.

They had some interesting info about the stock SS setup on their site, apparently the pad doesn't make contact with the last 5mm of the stock rotor... which seems strange. You do save 5lbs per rotor going with their setup though, not insignificant. http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...ont-p/2535.htm
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Old 02-12-2018, 05:49 PM   #24
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I wouldn't really want a heavier rotor than what already comes stock. Heat is dissipated by surface area. Weight/density allow you to soak up more heat, but it will also hold it in if the surface area isn't increased above the rate of material thickness. Holding in heat will cause the brakes to give out sooner in a track event. The rotors get hot enough they will mess with the bite of the pads.

I can agree that drilled rotors are problematic. But ball dimpling is probably superior to slots or flutes. Reason being is that in a slotted rotor, the percentage of material contact between pad and rotor is in constant flux as you pass over and between the slots. A ball dimpled rotor can have a static amount of what I would call 'engagement area' if the pattern is evenly distributed and sized appropriately based on the rotor radius and the intended pad height.

While the stock pad is probably the best for track duty on the stock SS calipers, they are the worst for daily driving. Aside from dust, they have too much initial bite for a comfortable experience. And when warm, they get a little sticky on the release.

Just my personal opinion.
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