04-05-2016, 11:28 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2011 Summit White Camaro SS (LS3) Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Welland, Ontario Canada
Posts: 542
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Advice about swaybar endlinks
Hi,
I did a bit of reading here and decided to upgrade my rear sway bar on my 2011 SS Vert. The part is ready to go in at my buddys place but then I read a few other things here about the stock endlinks not holding up well. Should I be replacing them as well? The bar I got is the Hotchkis adjustable rear. I'm sticking with the FE3 setup and the bar is for my model year. If I need to do the endlinks as well, which type would I need for it to work with the bar? I read that some are noisy. J |
04-05-2016, 12:20 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2LT V6 Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 439
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I have had aftermarket endlinks...I don't reccomended. Way to noisy. I have pfadt sways bars. Got tired of it and switched back to stock endlinks. I drive hard on the street in canyons and twisties. I haven't broken one yet. But if I did, I would just buy a new. OEM endlinks are like 20 bucks each. Buy a spare if it breaks. Way better than spending a few hundred on noisy links.
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Injen CAI, V-Max Throttle Body, Rx 25mm Iceolator, Rx 10mm Plenum Spacer, Mace Ported Manifold, ARK N-II Catback, Trifecta Tune, Rx Catch Can.
BMR Bushing Inserts,Pedders Radius Rod Inserts, Pfadt Sway Bars and Endlinks, LSR Front Subframe Brace SS Brembo Brakes, Racing Brake Stainless Lines |
04-06-2016, 10:19 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2014 Chevy Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 821
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Buy the MOOG brand end links, I had them on my mine and they were 100% better than the stocker-crap it came with it terms of durability. Plus, MOOG wasn't noisy and you can lubricate them. The quality is really good for the price, imo.
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04-06-2016, 01:50 PM | #4 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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The pfadt endlinks I had started to fail so I went back to stock. Now those are failing, so I'm pulling the trigger on the FE4 upgrade.
The geometry of the FE3 endlinks & swaybar is horrible and setup to fail with any decent amount of "spirited" driving. I tried to hold out thinking the FE3 was ok, but it really isn't. The new sway bar, endlinks, and lower control arms were only $500 from JDP and you can install them by yourself in your garage in a couple of hours.
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
04-10-2016, 12:34 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS RJT A6 Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: San Antonio,Texas
Posts: 675
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Where do you get these?
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04-10-2016, 01:32 AM | #6 |
Camaro #4
Drives: 2017-Hyper Blue Metallic-2LTmanual Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: NE Ohio (Akron)
Posts: 1,210
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Don M
Supercharged LGX + 6 speed manual = FUN!! |
04-10-2016, 08:52 AM | #7 |
2010 transformer
Drives: 2010 ss camaro Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Lee's summit mo
Posts: 591
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I snapped a factory one on hotchkis sway so I am doing the severe duty it wore my tire out on it before I figured it out
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2010 transformer, vertical doors, 315nt05 rears, pedders supercar coilovers, hotchkis sway bars, links, adjustable, toe bars, bmr poly cradle bushings, 1le control arms, bmr tunnel brace, bmr subframe connectors. Cam 227/239-623-620@114 Mast medium bore heads, sw 1 7/8 headers, cat delete, x pipe, 3" dynomax true duals, fuel rails, fast 102 intake and NW 102 throttle body, catch can, rotofab cai, shifter, raptor custom shift light. Dss drive shaft, 3.91 gears. 492 rwhp
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04-11-2016, 01:42 PM | #8 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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Swapped over to the FE4 on Friday. Those endlinks are no joke. Their geometry are 100x better. Install was really simple. Including swapping out the rear shocks, I did the whole swap in only a few hours using just jackstands in my garage.
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
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