EPS cam & few advices?

[Nabooy]

I'm really confused on which cam package to get for my LS3 M6 2013. Some say this and some that. My dealer says the best is to go for EPS cam. And yes, I would like to have a big, daily cam that will gain me more HP/torque for street races. I don't care about dyno numbers at all. In fact, I bought the EPS cam last night and I just don't know. What do you guys think? Shall I use and install it or switch to Comp cam? If you want, I could probably post the cam details, sizes and all later.

Also here's what my car setup has that is coming from a stock (filter only) to bolts & cam:

Underdrive pulley
Texas headers & x-pipe (1 "7/8)
GM's stock cat-back
Suspension pro-kit (1 inch lower)
Airad intake

Am I good to go here? What are the possible dyno number that can I get? 480+rwhp? Is there anything else do I've to add on my list such as parts and on? Do you recommend to go on race gas (VP racing 109) and increase the timing of the car for better dyno results?

Please advice.

[Jason 98 TA]

Thanks for running the TSP headers! Have you considered running a TSP camshaft grind? We engine dyno tested & developed all our camshafts on the dyno side by side with many different grinds as well as many competitors camshafts. As a result I can say with confidence that we can offer you the best power available. You'll have a hard time finding anyone on camaro5 with a engine dyno that can do the testing necessary to make sure that what they offer is the best possible product it can be.

Here's a dyno of the TSP 231/236 & the TSP 235/239 on the engine dyno side by side. This gives you data that not every shop can give you. True honest side by side data of two camshafts that are proven performers!!

[Birm]

Originally Posted by Nabooy

I'm really confused on which cam package to get for my LS3 M6 2013. Some say this and some that. My dealer says the best is to go for EPS cam. And yes, I would like to have a big, daily cam that will gain me more HP/torque for street races. I don't care about dyno numbers at all. In fact, I bought the EPS cam last night and I just don't know. What do you guys think? Shall I use and install it or switch to Comp cam? If you want, I could probably post the cam details, sizes and all later.

Also here's what my car setup has that is coming from a stock (filter only) to bolts & cam:

Underdrive pulley
Texas headers & x-pipe (1 "7/8)
GM's stock cat-back
Suspension pro-kit (1 inch lower)
Airad intake

Am I good to go here? What are the possible dyno number that can I get? 480+rwhp? Is there anything else do I've to add on my list such as parts and on? Do you recommend to go on race gas (VP racing 109) and increase the timing of the car for better dyno results?

Please advice.

You are all over the place man. What do you want? Do you want to know estimated power? You say you dont care but in the next paragraph start asking.

You need to post specs. You do not need race gas if you are using this thing in a daily driven car, that would get overly expensive very quick.

Post up cam specs and you'll get a lot more useful input much quicker.

If you already bought the cam, why are you second guessing it?

[christianchevell]

you need lots of supporting parts like a fresh set of gm exhaust gaskets, a three bolt timing gear and bolts for it if its a three bolt cam, a engine gasket set for tearing off the front end of the engine, and yes dealers usually recommend mild build cams and you would be better off having talked with TSP and you will need hardened push rods and springs to go with the new cam...... And I did a break in with driven racing oil br30 and use ls30 oil now because I want to make sure my engine lives. You will need to be dyno tuned or remote tuned with a tuner to get the air fuel ratios corrected and various parts of the tune correct along with a new higher idle around 900.

Also the cars new headers: you will need to get rid of a Check Engine Light that will come on from the increased distance of the O2 sensors that will delay the readings, you will need adjusted in the tune the correct elimination of the CEL due to this, and also you do not mention if your going to use high flow cats....

Also you mention just a under drive pulley, that requires belts and they have to be the correct length, also if you buy a cheap one you may regret it, as its also the harmonic balancer for the now more harmful and wide spread vibrations in the engine from a more radical cam. With out your specs it is hard to guestimate the amount of power you will have and it is a lot dependent on the tuner, you can also eliminate with the tune a lot of torque management with robs power, also things like 1-4 shift and hill start assist etc.....

You will also need a new harmonic balancer/pulley bolt because once you pull the old one its bolt garbage as its torqued way high in ft. lbs. And you say you do not care about dyno numbers but they are in fact the only way other than E.T. to measure the performance of the car in some ways and in fact are the way you measure which mods are worth it or not and how they affected your build. Also you should think about some BMR suspension parts like trailing arms, toe links, and upper suspension bushings and good poly bushings and a god LPW cover for the rear end to help limit wheel hop and protect the aluminum rear end.

Also know the more radical the cam the more you have to wonder about the longevity of the springs and a good idea is to check them every 25 thousand miles on a more radical build, and of course use a good oil catch cam for your engine, and a separate clutch reservoir is also a nice touch and can be bought from gen5diy.com yet the hose is hard to get on and off...I used pliers and took my time to not hurt anything yet you would be surprised at how dirty the clutch fluid gets compared to break fluid when they do not share the same reservoir. Also the timing of the car should be done in the tune by a experienced tuner as you do not want to run lean and hurt the engine yet you also do not want to run into spark knock ....which can damage the engine, and the engine loses timing to prevent it with its computer, Most people here in the us use 91-93 octane gas as premium and the tune should be adjusted for whatever is the premium fuel there, race gas is not necessary, a really good tune is as its remapping the air fuel ratios and changing a lot about the stock performance of the ECU in its programming to relate to a whole lot of new performance parts.

If I were you I would talk to a good vendor, good luck to you I hope I was helpful, I am a old hot rodder, and I used the best tuner I could find in my area a old LS guru whose business is named Wongs Performance Engineering. Even though he was about 60 miles away and cost me sales tax he was worth it, and saved me money compared to some others who would have done somewhat like wise the work but costed more and not really understood some of what they doing, or just did a canned tune not specifically tweeked from a vast library of former tunes from having just done engines of my type..LS engines and chevy engines, you see they can copy fuel maps from similar cams and paste them into the programming to apply and see the results inside the dyno run while operating the car......Tweeking the software that manipulates the ECU to perform the desired way...( he is a electrical engineer/ mechanic ), and used HP software. I doubt your Dealer uses HP software and though having the stock g.m. software is nice you have to have and know both very well to do the right things, and have good experience and, etc etc. I know I have a degree in computer applications management back when I had to program to do computer work before everyone and their dog had personal computers..... you know the 80's.. lol SO yes you should deal with a good LS engine build vendor, and talk to anyone anywhere to find out how your going to get a good tune there you may have to get one from the USA..? As most "Dealers" here sell only stock crapola which is usually mild, sometimes even milder than the stock CAM. Just to adjust the duration of a cam can make it sound better, but the proper adjustment to gain power with the correct higher lobes of the cam and the correct LSA for what you desire is something you need to figure out with help as our LS engine cams are huge by old chevy small and big block standards. Good Luck

[Nabooy]

Thanks for the info man! I've done almost the whole things you said such as bolts and engine gasket, etc. I just dropped my car to the best mechanic last night and they've already started working on my car. Can't wait for the weekend until it's done and hit it to the dyno for the results.

For everyone that is asking for the cam details, it's EPS Cam 230 / 240 113. I believe it's a custom cam by my dealer but I dunno if it's a big or small cam. When it comes to cams, I'm a total idiot. So any advice or help on this. Is it a daily drive? I mean can I atleast drive it for like 3 or 4 days a week just normal drive?

I'm not saying I need race gas for a daily drive but when it comes to races and such, I think it will be a great idea to have race gas and increase the timing of the engine for a couple of races and then get it back to before. I think it will make a slight difference here.

[GTOWN]

I have a 227/234 and it has torque where you want it.

[camarohead]

I have an eps cam and love it too...its a 226/234 lsa 113...drives like stock with plenty of power and lope.