10-27-2022, 09:52 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Convertible Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Fort Mill, SC
Posts: 8
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LSA Intercooler Cover Rear Bolt Removal
Ok, so I went to removing the intercooler cover tonight and was feeling like the man after I got the 4 rear bolts out, Then I discovered 2 more that make the other look like cake.
So I'm really not interested in drilling out the cowling as I have see some do. I'm hoping the experts can point me to an attachment or tool of some kind that will help make this a little easier. I had someone recommend a Matco A4UB which looks promising, just hoping someone in a performance shop or who deals with these all the time can share some wise tips or other ideas. Thanks |
10-27-2022, 10:08 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2015 zl1 m6 Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Alaska
Posts: 702
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You can bend the cowling upward alittle to get to those rear bolts , and using long extension and swivel -or drop the cradle down alittle .. taking off is the easy part ,it’s getting them torqued back down will be the hard part .. My OCD kicks in and have to hit the torque rating for them bolts
I’ve seen hand wrench with a swivel joint on it being used once , but that might be hard to find ..
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791whp 699 ft lbs torque on E30 - ported sc /heads by boost mode racing - PAT G cam /Tune
PB:10.7 @133.9 |
10-29-2022, 02:35 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NC
Posts: 106
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The factory manual has you drop the rear of the front subframe / engine mounting an inch or so for clearance. It’s real fun…
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10-29-2022, 04:09 PM | #4 |
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Set the car on jack stands on the front 2 punch weld jack points. That allows the front subframe to actually drop down as specified. I do this on a lift and it’s much easier than on the ground. It still is not fun to get to the rear bolts but it make it possible. I did not want to cut or bend my cowling.
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10-29-2022, 08:00 PM | #5 | ||
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Convertible Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Fort Mill, SC
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Quote:
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10-29-2022, 08:18 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Rochester, New york
Posts: 955
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Stop making it hard on yourself. Drill the cowl. I can get the lid off in 5 minutes now.
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22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 850/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.
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10-30-2022, 07:40 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NC
Posts: 106
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Yea I shoulda said… I cut spots out, it’s just easier, and no one will ever see it because it’s under the plastic you take off
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10-30-2022, 08:17 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Rochester, New york
Posts: 955
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I drilled holes above each bolt. Then put body plugs in the holes.
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22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 850/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.
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10-30-2022, 08:44 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Convertible Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Fort Mill, SC
Posts: 8
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10-31-2022, 11:53 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 camaro ss Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 102
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I believe I did the reach around with a gear wrench when I did mine or maybe a 1/4 ratchet and a socket.
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10-31-2022, 09:40 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Northeast
Posts: 72
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The 1st one I did, I drilled the cowl but I didn't like what it did to the cowl insulation when the hole saw exited thru the backside.
The 2nd one I did, I loosened the subframe bolts & couldn't believe how much easier it was with just a little extra room over the top. I have a lift so it was easy for me, but if I didn't I think I would still drop the subframe if the car was nice. |
11-01-2022, 12:10 PM | #12 |
Drives: '12 SIM ZL1, 1 of 49 Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 459
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When I had my SC replaced under warranty it was 2hr. 40 min. from the time I dropped off the car at the dealer 'till the tech called and said the install was finished. No holes drilled!
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Under Hood - Painted strut bar ends w/custom Polished Stainless mounting hardware, E2 CC, RotoFab CAI, ZL1 underhood decal, Amsoil oil, Black billet strut covers, Metco pulleys, intercooler reservoir, JRE 75 RWHP package.
Chassis - Hawk ceramic brake pads, ZL1 wheel decals, Amsoil fluids Interior - A pillar gauge pod w/Aeroforce Interceptor gauges, Polished ZL1 speaker rings, ZL1 mats and console lid, Custom GPS mount Exterior - 3M clear bra, LED driving lights, PIAA Plasma Ion yellow fog lights, Window tint, CF bowties, Technostalgia sequential tail lights |
11-01-2022, 04:55 PM | #13 |
ZL1_Chris
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Agreed drill holes
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11-01-2022, 06:39 PM | #14 |
Drives: ZL1, 2013, tri-coat-red, manual Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,607
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The tech bulletin says to drop the subframe one inch in front, end of bolt in the back. You can be done in under and hour and a half. My supercharger was also replaced in under 2 hours.
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