[LED Crazy]

I’m looking to replace my entire factory speaker system on my current factory Bose system. I was looking into JL because my brother owns an audio shop and he apparently gets a great deal through JL. I don’t need the best system, but I’d like to get a good one.

Any recommendations on speaker/amp/tweeter combos?

Any input would be helpful

[james duperre]

i did mine with all different components, pick what u like then sort out prices. i ordered mine all thru crutchfeild, there awsome when it comes to warrenty and returns. prices are good too.

[james duperre]

i kept front dash speakers stock and also kept rear quarter panel speakers stock. added 6x9 to rear deck and moved tweeters to B piller and adoors

[james duperre]

hope this helps

[LED Crazy]

Originally Posted by james duperre

hope this helps

This is rather unique. I quite like this. My sub and it’s supporting amp is coming from audiofrog (I got a unique deal from the owner). Rest of the speakers will be JL or whatever.

I appreciate everyone’s feedback

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by james duperre

i kept front dash speakers stock and also kept rear quarter panel speakers stock. added 6x9 to rear deck and moved tweeters to B piller and adoors

That's an interesting choice in speaker placement. The imaging in your car has got to be all over the place.

To the OP, there are tons of options out there, even with JL audio. As an audiophile, my audio builds are extreme. So imaging, time alignment, etc are really important to me.

If you are going with JL audio, and do not plan to use a signal processor, then you have your choice of setups. For a moderate budget setup, staying with JL audio, I would go with :

Drivers:
C3650 component setup for the front stage.
tweeter in the dash, replace 6x9 with 6.5 in the door.

C1650x to replace rear side panel speakers

C290Cx for rear deck (not necessary if you are adding woofers)

Subwoofers:
If adding subwoofers, I would forego the rear deck speakers, and add single or dual JL W6v3 woofers in a sealed box.

Amplifiers:
+ rear deck speakers: 4 channel + 4 channel (with two channels bridged to power the woofers, and other two to run the rear deck drivers)

- rear deck speakers: 4 channel + 1 channel mono for the sub, or 5 channel amp


The problem with our cars is maintaining functionality of all door chimes, warning signals, etc. Some setups do not allow for retention of these without unplugging door microphones.

The GM650 by NavTV allows for seamless integration of the OEM headunit with all aftermarket setups, with or without use of a signal processor.

This is about as basic of a setup that I can suggest. Which drivers , amps, and subs really depends on your budget. If you want suggestions on signal processors (or an explanation on why you want them) let me know. hope this helps.

[fastball]

Don't you have highs blasting straight into your and your passengers ears all the time?

That can't sound right

[james duperre]

Originally Posted by fastball

Don't you have highs blasting straight into your and your passengers ears all the time?

That can't sound right

passengers lol no one fits in the back of these things. i like highs, i have it tuned pretty well. im not 18 where u just want a shit ton of bass, i like to hear what my wilson phillips CD has to offer Jk but for real i think its a great combo

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by fastball

Don't you have highs blasting straight into your and your passengers ears all the time?

That can't sound right

Agree!

@James, there is no way you have this tuned well. You may have it how you like it, but no way it’s tuned correctly. The tweeters in the A pillars aren’t so much the issue as is the tweeters in the B Pillars. There is nothing that you gain from that.

If the B-pillars are passively crossed with the rear drivers, then you have high frequency signals from rear channels hitting your ears at the same time as the high frequency sounds from the passively crossed over front stage.

If you are actively crossing over the tweets, then you could dial back the high Frequencies through individual channel adjustments. And you could set a lower crossover threshold to maybe pick up some more vocals.

If you are running these with a passive crossover, then they are likely crossed over pretty high, out of the range of most vocals, and only adding more sizzle to the top end.

Either way, the staging with this type of setup is impossible to tune correctly, even with a DSP and DTA.

But, if you like it, that’s all that matters!

[Miami_1LE]

Best advise I can give is buy things here and there and wait till you have everything. I would suggest a decent set of front components, 5 channel amplifier, subwoofer and JL Audio FIX 86. The FIX86 really cleans up the sound. By buying a 5 channel amp you would save some money.

[Miami_1LE]

front and rear speakers $250
subwwofer with box $300-$500
Amplifier $250 kenwood 5 channels really good
JL Audio FIX 86 sound processor $400
you do the math.

[USRobo]

I saw your recommendations below for a basic setup and I am interested in getting a good quality sound with adequate base and wanted to get your opinion on a good JL audio setup with and without subwoofers. (I want to keep all the factory chimes, etc.)
Thanks in advance

Originally Posted by drfeelgood

That's an interesting choice in speaker placement. The imaging in your car has got to be all over the place.

To the OP, there are tons of options out there, even with JL audio. As an audiophile, my audio builds are extreme. So imaging, time alignment, etc are really important to me.

If you are going with JL audio, and do not plan to use a signal processor, then you have your choice of setups. For a moderate budget setup, staying with JL audio, I would go with :

Drivers:
C3650 component setup for the front stage.
tweeter in the dash, replace 6x9 with 6.5 in the door.

C1650x to replace rear side panel speakers

C290Cx for rear deck (not necessary if you are adding woofers)

Subwoofers:
If adding subwoofers, I would forego the rear deck speakers, and add single or dual JL W6v3 woofers in a sealed box.

Amplifiers:
+ rear deck speakers: 4 channel + 4 channel (with two channels bridged to power the woofers, and other two to run the rear deck drivers)

- rear deck speakers: 4 channel + 1 channel mono for the sub, or 5 channel amp


The problem with our cars is maintaining functionality of all door chimes, warning signals, etc. Some setups do not allow for retention of these without unplugging door microphones.

The GM650 by NavTV allows for seamless integration of the OEM headunit with all aftermarket setups, with or without use of a signal processor.

This is about as basic of a setup that I can suggest. Which drivers , amps, and subs really depends on your budget. If you want suggestions on signal processors (or an explanation on why you want them) let me know. hope this helps.

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by USRobo

I saw your recommendations below for a basic setup and I am interested in getting a good quality sound with adequate base and wanted to get your opinion on a good JL audio setup with and without subwoofers. (I want to keep all the factory chimes, etc.)
Thanks in advance

The above comment should be a good starting point. Really comes down to budget. Some people want to pay $1000 for an entire system. That, to me, would be difficult to do in this car. I would say that $2000 is more reasonable. For example, if you want to keep the factory dings and chimes, you will need to install a processor as well, and you may need to disconnect the ANC mics.

Some guys do a hack job on the factory wires, or splice into wires. If you get the M650 piece from NavTV you don have to do any of that, but that piece alone is $850