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Old 06-07-2014, 11:28 AM   #15
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It's a combination of traction and heat soak. Normally if you spin at all your mph will improve slightly but your ET will be worse. I guarantee that will will pick up all around with a quality heat exchanger. Do you drive your car to the track? Do you check and reset your tire pressure before each run? Do you launch the same every time? Is it TNT night at the track and is it mainly street cars?
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Old 06-07-2014, 01:46 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 2013 RaceRed 5.0 View Post
DING! DING! DING! DING! DING!

Also, C&D got 12.3@118-119mph in two different tests of a ZL1. Might be more ET out there for the OP ...

they were not a mile above sea level either haha.
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Old 06-07-2014, 01:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PremierJosh View Post
It's a combination of traction and heat soak. Normally if you spin at all your mph will improve slightly but your ET will be worse. I guarantee that will will pick up all around with a quality heat exchanger. Do you drive your car to the track? Do you check and reset your tire pressure before each run? Do you launch the same every time? Is it TNT night at the track and is it mainly street cars?
I have to dissagre a bit. heat soak decresses you HP then that would drop you trap. you tire pressure can come up with heat though if your not monitoring it.


if you trapping the same it is most likely not heat soak. People blame everthing on this car on heat soak but you have to look at all the data.
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Old 06-07-2014, 03:09 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Mikes fast ss View Post
Feel free to object but if you do you should prob explain what the reason for his drop off is.

Maybe this particular day the track did go away. Maybe he got heat soaked sitting in staging for 15 min. You do realize that you can pull a car out of a trailer and get it heat soaked before a pass. Gotta love all these wanna be drag racers....

So 590 to the rears you must be making consistent high 10 second passes, correct?



Wanna be drag racer, really. Surely your not being a a** to someone you don't even know. Please try to be a little kinder to us c5 members. Sorry if I offended you, I was only giving my own personal experiences . Yea sometimes the track does go away. I also spent 15 plus minutes in staging and still did not have heat soak issues.
I have never been on a 1/4, but I would hope I could make high 10's. Thank you for all your positive comments. I did post time slips for 7.1 @ 102.66 in the 1/8 if that helps.

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Old 06-07-2014, 04:29 PM   #19
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Drag radials were new we. Car is an A6 and I have not found a way to do a burn out.
At 20 psi they hooked good....no wheel spin. How do you Auto g
uys manage to do a decent burnout with the stock converter?
Thanks for the info. I'LL keep experimenting.
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Old 06-07-2014, 04:32 PM   #20
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Left foot on the brake, right foot on the gas?
20psi in the 20" drag radials. Anything less than that and I could feel my car "bounce" out of the hole, which typically means not enough air pressure.
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Old 06-07-2014, 06:39 PM   #21
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Quote:
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At 20 psi they hooked good....no wheel spin.
Thanks for the info. I'LL keep experimenting.
No spin, You need to get the rpms as high as possible while holding the brake when the tree starts then release the brake and floor it on the last yellow. If you want to get serious about drag racing you may want to look into another torque converter with more stall...It will let you launch with more rpm out of the hole.
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Old 06-07-2014, 07:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes fast ss View Post
Heat soak. Give yourself more cool down time.
What he said!
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Old 06-07-2014, 08:07 PM   #23
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It's not heat soak! STOP IT!
If some of you can't see that his 60' is a tenth slower on each pass that the car is then a tenth slower at the stripe and understand the relationship between those two numbers, then you shouldn't be offering advice about drag racing!


Quote:
Originally Posted by jessrayo View Post
No spin, You need to get the rpms as high as possible while holding the brake when the tree starts then release the brake and floor it on the last yellow. If you want to get serious about drag racing you may want to look into another torque converter with more stall...It will let you launch with more rpm out of the hole.
No, you don't want to get the rpm's as high as possible. You want to let the stock converter flash. It'll flash to 2300-2400rpm or so. My experience with my own car, and from what I've see of other A6 ZL1 guys on this forum, is that idle to 1000 or maybe 1200rpm and then floor it. If it dead hooks guys have been going 1.5x and I've as quick as 1.61 on the same 20" ET Streets the OP is using.
And from what I know, there's only a handful of tuners in the country that have been able to get an aftermarket converter to lock correctly in these cars.
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Old 06-07-2014, 08:10 PM   #24
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It's not heat soak! STOP IT!


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Old 06-07-2014, 08:50 PM   #25
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Thanks to all. You've given me some good ideas on what to try.. I will let you know next test and tune night.
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Old 06-07-2014, 10:32 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white ZL1 View Post
It's not heat soak! STOP IT!
If some of you can't see that his 60' is a tenth slower on each pass that the car is then a tenth slower at the stripe and understand the relationship between those two numbers, then you shouldn't be offering advice about drag racing!
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Old 06-08-2014, 08:44 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white ZL1 View Post
It's not heat soak! STOP IT!
If some of you can't see that his 60' is a tenth slower on each pass that the car is then a tenth slower at the stripe and understand the relationship between those two numbers, then you shouldn't be offering advice about drag racing!




No, you don't want to get the rpm's as high as possible. You want to let the stock converter flash. It'll flash to 2300-2400rpm or so. My experience with my own car, and from what I've see of other A6 ZL1 guys on this forum, is that idle to 1000 or maybe 1200rpm and then floor it. If it dead hooks guys have been going 1.5x and I've as quick as 1.61 on the same 20" ET Streets the OP is using.
And from what I know, there's only a handful of tuners in the country that have been able to get an aftermarket converter to lock correctly in these cars.
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Old 06-08-2014, 03:37 PM   #28
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I've installed a ROTOFAB CAI and lower pulley. ..75RWHP kit from Jeanetty Racing with TORCO fuel additive. MT Drag Radials are brand new.
Still experimenting on the launch. Hope to get to 1.5-1.6 60' just need more track time.
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