Bought my first camaro first muscle car. CEL already...

[Chomorro]

My background is turbo or super charged imports and I have always wanted a muscle car. Had a built motor Subaru STI before this and decided no more race cars and got a jeep wrangler unlimited my first automatic non sports car in 20 years and went to town with the off road upgrades.

The thought process was fun muscle car that gets better mpg then my jeep (14 mpg) can withstand boost or upgrades without blowing up and reliable. Carb legal 500whp was the plan.

Browsing the for sale ads I ran across a 6 speed 2010 Camaro SS in my budget price range and went and picked it up yesterday. The wife will drive the lifted jeep and I will daily the camaro.

I did everything right, paid to have the dealer inspect, clean carfax non performance modded SS, passed smog with no issues.

As soon as I take it out if the parking lot after handing over the check. Check engine light pops on, along with stability light and reduced power warning WTF!!!

Narrowed it down to always on CEL of P0641. After cold starting and driving the car feels normal until warm, then randomly a initial take off in first will throw the stability light and reduced power. Before the reduced power the car feels normal. It doesnt throw the stability light at night it seems or when it's cold. Google tells me this CEL is a huge pain in the butt to correct, tried most of online fixes and hopefully my mechanic can figure it out for not too much money.

So much for getting away from all the import electronic gremlins!


Mechanic update: code was thrown after the throttle pedal reached 50%. Viper alarm was tapped into this wire and removed. Wire now has full signal but is throwing other codes. Dealer was unable to reflash ecm so a new one was purchased. Waiting on this swap.....
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12/5/19 Update car is finally fixed. Issue was the viper alarm install from previous owner which used butt connectors and lowered the resistance in the throttle cable. $1500.00 dollar surprise bill. I DO NOT recommend Top Flight Corvette in San Diego as a mechanic choice. I was charged for every attempted fix but not given notice or a call they just kept doing things until they fixed it.

12/7/19 update car threw the same check engine light with reduced engine power....... pretty irritated at this point. Dont want to take it back to the same mechanic but its supposed to be warranty on this work and I dont want to pay again. Afraid if I take it back they will claim it's a different issues and charge me again.

12/8/19 Dropped it off. Mechanic wants to make it right somehow we will see.

12/13/19 mechanic update: It has a different code now. I got it to work right. The MAF signal was below it's threshold. I tightened all the weather pack pins and it started to work right. I want to rive it to make sure it doesn't throw any other codes.

12/16/19 mechanic update: Until I got here. It has a new code. Something is shorting out the ECM. Lawt found some wires that look like they have a problem from something that was done before. It has Zip ties holding it together. I will take some pics and let you know.

12/24/19 Picked up the car from the mechanic today. He said there hasn't been in CEL in 80 miles but he isnt sure the issue is fixed. He thinks it's a wiring harness on the front of the engine that connects to the cam sensor (if anyone knows what harness he is talking about a pic would be nice) . He was going to wait until the CEL came back and shake the harness to see if the problem goes away.


At this point the car is driving fine and I just wanted to get it out of that shop so if it happens again I will take it elsewhere.

[CamaroBarb]

You need the factory wiring diagram then find the open in circuit A and repair it. Seriously any dealer A tech should be able to repair this quickly. You could check all the fuses yourself. A blown fuse could cause this code too.

[lemontwist]

http://p0641.enginetroublecode.com/chevrolet-camaro
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504792

[Chomorro]

Thank you! I did find that above thread but I didn't get a specific sensor code. I checked the fuses and plug wires to make sure they are on tight.

I Need to find a manual sho I can locate the position of the other mentioned sensors.

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[wasthatacop?]

That sucks. And it sounds like you did everything you could do check out the car before purchasing it. That stupid Stabilitrack light comes on for dozens of reasons. When I destroyed a cylinder, and ended up needing a new engine, the Stabilitrack light came on.

Did any kind of warranty come with the car? like, itleast a 30 day?

[tstodii]

Bad batteries are known to cause a slew of issues. Prob. not it, but would at least check it out

[mikeman]

Originally Posted by Chomorro

Thank you! I did find that above thread but I didn't get a specific sensor code. I checked the fuses and plug wires to make sure they are on tight.

I Need to find a manual sho I can locate the position of the other mentioned sensors.

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How about checking the crank sensor connector and the gas cap?

[Chomorro]

Just got back from driving around to different mechanics. First two said the code could be anything and had no idea where to start.......... I ended up leaving the car with a corvette mechanic who supposedly specializes in all muscle cars. He cant look at it until next Monday though so it will just sit there.

I did check the battery and gas cap. I'm hoping it's nothing major since it drives fine for the first ten minutes until the light comes on. If it is I may sell it as is but I crossing my fingers it's just a quick sensor.

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[Chomorro]

If anyone knows of a Camaro expert in San Diego CA I would prefer to take the car there.

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[Chomorro]

Originally Posted by wasthatacop?

That sucks. And it sounds like you did everything you could do check out the car before purchasing it. That stupid Stabilitrack light comes on for dozens of reasons. When I destroyed a cylinder, and ended up needing a new engine, the Stabilitrack light came on.

Did any kind of warranty come with the car? like, itleast a 30 day?

Curious when you blew your motor did the stabilitrak light stay on or go off every time you started it and came back after a fee minutes?

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[Greenhornet2]

Sounds like you have either a bad fuel pressure sensor or fuel pump control module, or a short in the ckt. test as below for ckt testing. Both parts are fairly cheap and easy to replace.

1. Ignition OFF, disconnect harness connector of the B47 fuel pressure sensor.
2. Ignition OFF, test for less than 1.0 Ω between the low reference circuit terminal 2 and ground.
3. If greater than the specified range, test the low reference circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the K27 fuel pump control module.
4. Ignition ON, test for 4.8–5.2 V between the 5 V reference circuit terminal 3 and ground.
5. If less than the specified range, test the 5 V reference circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the K27 fuel pump control module.

• If greater than the specified range, test the 5 V reference circuit for a short to voltage. If the circuit tests normal, replace the K27 fuel pump control module.

1. If all circuits test normal, replace the B47 fuel pressure sensor.

[Chomorro]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

Sounds like you have either a bad fuel pressure sensor or fuel pump control module, or a short in the ckt. test as below for ckt testing. Both parts are fairly cheap and easy to replace.

1. Ignition OFF, disconnect harness connector of the B47 fuel pressure sensor.
2. Ignition OFF, test for less than 1.0 Ω between the low reference circuit terminal 2 and ground.
3. If greater than the specified range, test the low reference circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the K27 fuel pump control module.
4. Ignition ON, test for 4.8–5.2 V between the 5 V reference circuit terminal 3 and ground.
5. If less than the specified range, test the 5 V reference circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the K27 fuel pump control module.

• If greater than the specified range, test the 5 V reference circuit for a short to voltage. If the circuit tests normal, replace the K27 fuel pump control module.

1. If all circuits test normal, replace the B47 fuel pressure sensor.

Well for the cost of this diagnosis ($200) I could have just replaced both sensors and called it a day but it's at the shop now so I will await what they say.

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[Greenhornet2]

Sometimes you are better off at a dealer. They very in depth diagnostic steps and tests.

[Chomorro]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

Sometimes you are better off at a dealer. They very in depth diagnostic steps and tests.

I just didnt want them telling me could be this but wont know until we install it kind of thing.

I'm almost tempted to pick it up from the mechanic buy a lifetime tune from the Steve user and use the scanner to read and clear the codes. Hopefully the tuner scanner is more precise then auto zone. Use the money saved to start diagnosing things and buying sensors.

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