[Could've_had_a_V8]

I was going to change the oil right before track day. Do you recommend changing to 5w40 while I'm at it along with the extra quart? Thanks!

[Could've_had_a_V8]

Originally Posted by Buzzberd6

Per the GM performance manual, I would recommend adding 1 extra quart of oil to the engine prior to doing your track day. Then draining it out after you're done. I don't know if the standard non-1LE models have the extra oil cooler (doubt it) but I'm pretty sure they all have the same oil capacity.

I've done it each time I've done a track day in my 2LT 1LE, it's not that difficult if you have a floor jack and jack stands. Or ramps could work too.

I was going to have the oil changed right before track day. Do you recommend switching to 5w40 while I'm at it along with adding the extra quart?

[Snrub]

Pretty much every car needs at least a brake fluid upgrade to spend time on a track. As the brakes heat up, the fluid can cease to function correctly. If you notice the pedal getting soft and requiring extra travel as you are driving , you may wish to stop and cool the brakes down. Given what you will be paying for the programs, ~$30 is cheap insurance to avoid time sitting on the sidelines.

Rather than focusing on the DOT rating (other than DOT 5, but 5.1 is still okay), look for something with a high dry boiling point. Longer lasting fluids have high wet boiling points, that's the main difference between DOT 3, 4, 5.1. You can find inexpensive DOT 3 "Ford Spec" with a high dry boiling point, but it doesn't last very long. ATE Typ 200 is inexpensive, widely available and a DOT 4 fluid with a 536F dry boiling point. Stoptech has some 600F fluid that isn't terribly expensive either.

I don't know how well the pads on the base brakes will handle track use. There don't appear to be a lot of performance pads available for the base brake calipers... The overwhelming majority of OEM pads overheat and fade pretty quickly, even on performance oriented cars.

[Buzzberd6]

Originally Posted by Could've_had_a_V8

I was going to have the oil changed right before track day. Do you recommend switching to 5w40 while I'm at it along with adding the extra quart?

Don't add the extra oil until you actually do the track day, as in, do it when you get there before you go on track. GM recommends you remove the extra qt. before driving it home. If I didn't live 45 minutes away, I would, but I just casually drive home and drain it when I get home. If it was several hrs away I'd take it out at the track.

You def. want to look into the 4 pot Brembos though. These things are AMAZING! Even the OEM 1LE pads are extremely good! I have race only pads that I've used on my race car that don't have an initial bite that are as good as these.
I'm still using the original pads now with 12K+miles, two Daytona track days and seven autocross weekends. Lots of pad left.

Try to find an SS owner that wants to (or has) upgraded to 6 pot Brembos and buy their front Brembos. You won't regret it.

[Could've_had_a_V8]

Originally Posted by whiteboyblues2001

It is never a bad idea to upgrade to DOT4 brake fluid before going (don't use DOT5!!). It has a higher boiling point than DOT3. Also, fresh fluid is important too, as brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, and the boiling point drops as a result.

Just to be sure, take a look at the owner's manual, in the section "Track Events and Competitive Driving", starting on page 197 (for the second printing). Here is a link to the owner's manual:

https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam...s%20Manual.pdf

Also, the manual recommends changing the differential fluid after your first track event, but I would change mine before and after the first event. The SS's have had a groaning issue, and an early diff fluid change (after the break-in period), helps prevent that. Not sure if the V6 diff has had any issues, but it never hurts to put in some fresh fluid before you go to get out all the break-in material, then change it after, since it will break-in some more, and the diff will get hot.

Thanks for pointing me to the manual. For whatwver reason, I didn't see that section in my printed manual. Nevertheless, it doesn't mention the LGX. It reads as though the instructions apply only to the SS or turbo. I'm confused.

[Could've_had_a_V8]

Originally Posted by Chez

For my first track day I added the 4 pistons, changed fluid and that was about it. As you progress the brake ducting would be worth your time as well. GM sells Ferodo pads for the rear of the V6.

Have fun!

It seems that you're one of the only people here with the same car as mine. So the stock all season runflats were ok? Thanks!

[Could've_had_a_V8]

Originally Posted by mbar

On your first ever track day you will likely to be slow.
I would replace brake fluid and better brake pads - at least high performance street in not 'light' track pads. The rest should be ok.
When you will get faster you will need better tires, larger brakes and your engine, transmission and rear diff will likely to overheat because they don't have coolers.

Have fun and be safe

Thanks! Perhaps when I start getting faster I can convince the wife that I NEED a ZL1. Haha!

[Could've_had_a_V8]

Originally Posted by Snrub

Pretty much every car needs at least a brake fluid upgrade to spend time on a track. As the brakes heat up, the fluid can cease to function correctly. If you notice the pedal getting soft and requiring extra travel as you are driving , you may wish to stop and cool the brakes down. Given what you will be paying for the programs, ~$30 is cheap insurance to avoid time sitting on the sidelines.

Rather than focusing on the DOT rating (other than DOT 5, but 5.1 is still okay), look for something with a high dry boiling point. Longer lasting fluids have high wet boiling points, that's the main difference between DOT 3, 4, 5.1. You can find inexpensive DOT 3 "Ford Spec" with a high dry boiling point, but it doesn't last very long. ATE Typ 200 is inexpensive, widely available and a DOT 4 fluid with a 536F dry boiling point. Stoptech has some 600F fluid that isn't terribly expensive either.

I don't know how well the pads on the base brakes will handle track use. There don't appear to be a lot of performance pads available for the base brake calipers... The overwhelming majority of OEM pads overheat and fade pretty quickly, even on performance oriented cars.

Thanks for the detailed info. I will definitely upgrade the brake fluid. I'm almost certain I'll be upgrade to the 4 piston Brembos too.

[Could've_had_a_V8]

Originally Posted by Buzzberd6

Don't add the extra oil until you actually do the track day, as in, do it when you get there before you go on track. GM recommends you remove the extra qt. before driving it home. If I didn't live 45 minutes away, I would, but I just casually drive home and drain it when I get home. If it was several hrs away I'd take it out at the track.

You def. want to look into the 4 pot Brembos though. These things are AMAZING! Even the OEM 1LE pads are extremely good! I have race only pads that I've used on my race car that don't have an initial bite that are as good as these.
I'm still using the original pads now with 12K+miles, two Daytona track days and seven autocross weekends. Lots of pad left.

Try to find an SS owner that wants to (or has) upgraded to 6 pot Brembos and buy their front Brembos. You won't regret it.

I will definitely upgrade to the 4 pot Brembos unless this is too good to be true: https://www.thatgmpartsguy.com/oem-p...Y2LWdhcw%3D%3D

[kropscamaro16]

Originally Posted by Could've_had_a_V8

I will definitely upgrade to the 4 pot Brembos unless this is too good to be true: https://www.thatgmpartsguy.com/oem-p...Y2LWdhcw%3D%3D

nope thats a damn good deal lol

[Snrub]

On most cars it's usually overkill for light track users to upgrade their calipers. It probably makes sense on these cars as the upgrade is so inexpensive and it opens up more pad option (including OEM).

I had a 4-piston OEM brake setup in a previous car and I hated it for general use (on track they were great). The calipers were aluminum and the bleeders were steel. Galvanic corrosion worked its magic each time I needed to bleed fluid and the bleeders would strip out the thread (be careful not to over tighten!). Queue trip to caliper rebuilder or part store. I'd recommend getting a vacuum operated pump so that you have fewer tighten/untighten bleeding sessions to avoid fatigue.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

A few things I know I've done for AutoX and track days that may help. I started out with a 1LT model, the main big option being a sunroof (wife request/stipulation).

-Oil, I run what I normally do, but only added 1/4 to 1/3 a quart more. the first track day, you will be doing more learning than all out driving. also the supplemental manual is based for the SS and LTG. point being, on page 197 it states

Be sure to check the oil level often during racing or other competitive driving and keep the (Continued)
Caution (Continued)
level at or near the upper mark that shows the proper operating range on the engine oil dipstick.

there's no specific V6 oil setting. it says 1L over for the LTG 2.0 turbo engine, and changing the oil to a 5w-40 on the SS 6.2L models. that being said, remember when you come in, keep an eye on the oil levels throughout the day. over a full interval oil change, i'm barely using any oil in the v6, but all cars are different. just keep an eye on it.

I kinda went with previous experience from the 2013 Camaro, and have had great results... even on oil analysis samples afterwards.

-Brakes, I upgraded from the single piston gimmicks to the 4 piston gimmicks. that's a hell of a deal on the 4 pistons as they normally go for 2 grand. I did buy mine used from a take off car for about the same price. 345$ came with calipers, pads, rotors, lines and bolts. haven't had a need to upgrade anything yet, and honestly, they've done EXTREMELY well on just the stock fare.

I did bleed with dot4 once I did the install. other than that.... #Runnin&Gunnin still goin. considering I was on the fence about wilwood 6 pistons, the stock oem 4 pistons are great on a daily driver, and amazing on track...all tracks so far. and theres is a great range of pads avaialable for em as this 4 piston caliper from brembo comes on soooooo many cars, from the mustang, to Camaro, and a few other cars, most people will be like "whuuuuuuut" when they see the list.



wheels and tires...you should be good on the stock stuff. learn the car as most have advised. I took the same advice before I went out this seasons and applied. just go out and soak up knowledge and experience. in stock form, youll have more than enough car there to drive and the ability to get deep into its performance before you really have a need to change anything. a lot to learn with the new cars to be honest.

one thing I would advise...a torque wrench to check them lugs before you go on the track, and an air pump, if they don't provide one at the track. most tracks people there will have both of these and you can borrow as most are willing to help.

also when you come in, and if you been getting It a bit....don't come in, and hold the brakes via the brake pedal. sometimes hot rotors like to take on pad deposits, so try and be light on the brakes and when you stop to park, park and get off the brakes.

other than that, have fun with it.

[Could've_had_a_V8]

Originally Posted by Snrub

On most cars it's usually overkill for light track users to upgrade their calipers. It probably makes sense on these cars as the upgrade is so inexpensive and it opens up more pad option (including OEM).

I had a 4-piston OEM brake setup in a previous car and I hated it for general use (on track they were great). The calipers were aluminum and the bleeders were steel. Galvanic corrosion worked its magic each time I needed to bleed fluid and the bleeders would strip out the thread (be careful not to over tighten!). Queue trip to caliper rebuilder or part store. I'd recommend getting a vacuum operated pump so that you have fewer tighten/untighten bleeding sessions to avoid fatigue.

I wasn't planning on bleeding the brakes myself. Is it easy?

[Could've_had_a_V8]

Holy cow! Thanks so much for all the info! You answered every queation I had and cleared out all my confusion.