Couple header install questions - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

jshaf · 10-03-2015, 12:06 PM

I have a 2011 SS L99 with 7500 miles on it. I have a set of Stainless Power Headers on the way. should be here here on monday.

here are the questions. 1) the tube of sealer that comes with the package, can it be used with the stock gaskets? has anyone applied it with the gasket to achieve a better "seal"? just seems to me it would make sense 2) reading numerous threads on header installs I was curious what I should use to lube the bolts, read different names and was wandering what I ask for at the parts store. I guess it is a penetrating oil? is this like WD40? 3) can you use a heat gun for the sensor bung if I don't have a torch handy? 4) even though I have a 2011 I only have 7500 on it, would I really need new GM gaskets or should I be OK?

USAFS197 · 10-03-2015, 01:10 PM

While I have an LS3, I think much of the process should be similar. I used penetrating oil on my header bolts to help ease them along - this includes the bolts that connect to my NPP. I changed it all out when my car had 1500 miles on it so, I didn't require a torch or heat gun to take off my O2's. Whatever you decide to do in that regard, just take your time and it should pan out.

As far as the tube of sealer and your gaskets are concerned, so long as your stock gaskets come off cleanly and there are no visible breaks, it should be perfectly fine to reuse your stock gaskets. I'd have the sealer handy just in case but I don't foresee you needing it.

GONIF · 10-03-2015, 01:27 PM

Throw that Valco silicone away and buy new GM gaskets, don't use the silicone on the gaskets. If your car was only a year old you might be able to reuse the gaskets , but a 4 or 5 year old car should get new gaskets. WD40 is also junk , use PB parts blaster or Kroil , spray all the nuts and bolts and let it sit for a while then spray again . That should get them all easy to remove . I have found it is better to remove the manifolds from the car and then take out the O2 sensors .

JCunningham · 10-03-2015, 03:14 PM

1 no do not put anything on with the GM gaskets
2 you shouldn't need anything there only on there at 15ftlbs and your car might as well be new
3 see # 2
4 buy new GM gaskets

pyroguy · 10-03-2015, 03:27 PM

What would change if the car was a 2010 with a little over 41,000 miles? I'll be doing an install next weekend on my car and I've never installed headers before. OP, sorry to thread jack you.

JCunningham · 10-03-2015, 03:35 PM

you could put some penetrating oil on the bolts overnight probably still wont need anything

GONIF · 10-03-2015, 04:40 PM

New GM gaskets are cheap . But if you don't mind exhaust leaks go and use the old gaskets , you might get lucky with the old ones.

sdynak · 10-04-2015, 02:16 PM

Just put mine on last Monday..

Didn't use new gaskets.. OEM were still in good shape at 30k miles and no leaks

No sealer came with Kooks sorry not sure why they give that.. no silicone & no leaks here

Did separate manifolds from cats.. seemed like a no brainer as I was on ramps and there was enough room. Did not attempt without.

I tried to remove the first O2 sensor without heat.. I did leave them in the exhaust for easier access/position to remove. No luck without heat as it felt like it would be pushing it for the tools so went to my oxy/act setup.. Once heated all 4 came out fine with a little initial nudge. Once cracked loose kept backing out then in until they all came out effortlessly and no thread damage. No lube used here did not need other than some heat to budge it.

Used wd40 on the clamps.. at 5 years old prob could have used new ones but they came apart after some work and went back on with no leaks. Just would look a bit nicer with new but function is same.

Take your time with removal on everything. That is the time to be patient.. do not force anything that seems unreasonable. Remove spark plugs just to be safe although I feel it was not 100% necessary I did so.

Had everything off before UPS man delivered about 5:30.. was sitting down eating dinner finished at about 6:30.

dentnshell · 10-04-2015, 04:21 PM

7500 miles. I would simply re-use the GM gaskets.
I did with 15k miles (granted it was a '14) or simply order new GM gaskets from Amazon if you are concerned

Make sure you spray the O2 sensors with penetrating oil PB Blaster or something of the sort not just WD40... It needs to soak for hours... 24 hours will not be overkill!

I ended up having to wait on Amazon to deliver two new sensors.... I used heat and PB Blaster.

Take out plugs.
Make sure you take note of where the oil dipstick tube goes into the block. Watch as the wife or friend pulls it out.
Torque the header bolts to 18 ft/lbs.... They are not as tight as you might think they should be.

Tenring · 10-04-2015, 04:50 PM

[QUOTE=dentnshell;8668397

Make sure you take note of where the oil dipstick tube goes into the block. [/QUOTE]

Good advise, even when you know where it is supposed to go, it is still a pain to get back in.

sdynak · 10-04-2015, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tenring

Good advise, even when you know where it is supposed to go, it is still a pain to get back in.

Yeah.. forgot that point. it went smooth for me so didn't stick out. But it should be watched.. maybe why I did ok was seeing that posted before.

jdsblueray2013 · 10-04-2015, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GONIF

Throw that Valco silicone away and buy new GM gaskets, don't use the silicone on the gaskets. If your car was only a year old you might be able to reuse the gaskets , but a 4 or 5 year old car should get new gaskets. WD40 is also junk , use PB parts blaster or Kroil , spray all the nuts and bolts and let it sit for a while then spray again . That should get them all easy to remove . I have found it is better to remove the manifolds from the car and then take out the O2 sensors .

fastjohnny · 10-04-2015, 08:42 PM

With only 7500 miles on your car, you shouldn't have any problems with getting the header bolts off, as for sealant, I wouldn't use it, I used the stock gaskets and they were fine. As for the O2 sensors a heat gun won't get hot enough, but with 7500 miles on your car I don't think you will have a problem getting them out. My car had about the same miles and didn't have any problems with dismantling. When installing the header bolts its a good idea to put antiseize on the bolts. I took a piece of making tape and marked where the oil dipstick goes in, its a blind shot, so you have to fish for the hole. Good luck with the install!

jshaf · 10-05-2015, 05:43 PM

thanks for all the suggestions, will be tackling the install wednesday if all goes well!

10-03-2015, 12:06 PM	#1
jshaf Montani Semper Liberi Drives: 2011 Black 2SS/RS w/ IOM stripes Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Masontown, WV Posts: 4,841	Couple header install questions I have a 2011 SS L99 with 7500 miles on it. I have a set of Stainless Power Headers on the way. should be here here on monday. here are the questions. 1) the tube of sealer that comes with the package, can it be used with the stock gaskets? has anyone applied it with the gasket to achieve a better "seal"? just seems to me it would make sense 2) reading numerous threads on header installs I was curious what I should use to lube the bolts, read different names and was wandering what I ask for at the parts store. I guess it is a penetrating oil? is this like WD40? 3) can you use a heat gun for the sensor bung if I don't have a torch handy? 4) even though I have a 2011 I only have 7500 on it, would I really need new GM gaskets or should I be OK? __________________ Stainless Works 1 7/8 Long Tude Headers, Stainless Works High Flow Cats, Stainless Works Retro Chambered Catback, Z/28 Air Intake, RDP Tuned, FR41 Chrome Rims, 1100W stereo, 35% Tint

10-03-2015, 01:10 PM	#2
USAFS197 Drives: 2018 Audi TT RS Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Navarre, Florida Posts: 1,915	While I have an LS3, I think much of the process should be similar. I used penetrating oil on my header bolts to help ease them along - this includes the bolts that connect to my NPP. I changed it all out when my car had 1500 miles on it so, I didn't require a torch or heat gun to take off my O2's. Whatever you decide to do in that regard, just take your time and it should pan out. As far as the tube of sealer and your gaskets are concerned, so long as your stock gaskets come off cleanly and there are no visible breaks, it should be perfectly fine to reuse your stock gaskets. I'd have the sealer handy just in case but I don't foresee you needing it. __________________ 2018 Audi TT ▊RS 2.4X 0-60, 1.6X 60', 120+mph 1/8th, 4.XX 60-130, 150+mph traps on 255/35/18 R888R tires on the street (unprepped). 2019 Audi RS3 About as fast as the TT RS 2019 Camaro ZL1 1LE Sold 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Sold 2019 Corvette Z06 Sold 2021 Charger Hellcat Redeye Widebody Sold

10-03-2015, 01:27 PM	#3
GONIF Drives: 73 VETTE ,, 05 2500hd diesel,14 1LE Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: The Left lane PHOENIX AZ Posts: 2,626	Throw that Valco silicone away and buy new GM gaskets, don't use the silicone on the gaskets. If your car was only a year old you might be able to reuse the gaskets , but a 4 or 5 year old car should get new gaskets. WD40 is also junk , use PB parts blaster or Kroil , spray all the nuts and bolts and let it sit for a while then spray again . That should get them all easy to remove . I have found it is better to remove the manifolds from the car and then take out the O2 sensors . __________________ OLD GUY FLYING FAST AND LOW

10-03-2015, 03:14 PM	#4
JCunningham Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: WNY Posts: 7,070	1 no do not put anything on with the GM gaskets 2 you shouldn't need anything there only on there at 15ftlbs and your car might as well be new 3 see # 2 4 buy new GM gaskets __________________ real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1

10-03-2015, 03:27 PM	#5
pyroguy Started#gottalovethatblue Drives: ABM #831 Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: TN Posts: 6,919 View My Garage	What would change if the car was a 2010 with a little over 41,000 miles? I'll be doing an install next weekend on my car and I've never installed headers before. OP, sorry to thread jack you. __________________ '10 Camaro 2SS/RS \| Aqua Blue #831 of 3,903 \| Silver Stripes Check out my build thread

10-03-2015, 03:35 PM	#6
JCunningham Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: WNY Posts: 7,070	you could put some penetrating oil on the bolts overnight probably still wont need anything __________________ real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1

10-03-2015, 04:40 PM	#7
GONIF Drives: 73 VETTE ,, 05 2500hd diesel,14 1LE Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: The Left lane PHOENIX AZ Posts: 2,626	New GM gaskets are cheap . But if you don't mind exhaust leaks go and use the old gaskets , you might get lucky with the old ones. __________________ OLD GUY FLYING FAST AND LOW

10-04-2015, 02:16 PM	#8
sdynak Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Bayville, NJ Posts: 936	Just put mine on last Monday.. Didn't use new gaskets.. OEM were still in good shape at 30k miles and no leaks No sealer came with Kooks sorry not sure why they give that.. no silicone & no leaks here Did separate manifolds from cats.. seemed like a no brainer as I was on ramps and there was enough room. Did not attempt without. I tried to remove the first O2 sensor without heat.. I did leave them in the exhaust for easier access/position to remove. No luck without heat as it felt like it would be pushing it for the tools so went to my oxy/act setup.. Once heated all 4 came out fine with a little initial nudge. Once cracked loose kept backing out then in until they all came out effortlessly and no thread damage. No lube used here did not need other than some heat to budge it. Used wd40 on the clamps.. at 5 years old prob could have used new ones but they came apart after some work and went back on with no leaks. Just would look a bit nicer with new but function is same. Take your time with removal on everything. That is the time to be patient.. do not force anything that seems unreasonable. Remove spark plugs just to be safe although I feel it was not 100% necessary I did so. Had everything off before UPS man delivered about 5:30.. was sitting down eating dinner finished at about 6:30. __________________ 2010 1SS LS3, Black, 235/250, .621/.615, 114 + 4, Kooks Stepped Headers, 3.91's, Bo White PTB, Flowmaster Mufflers, Cold Air Industries CAI, Apex Scoop & Windshield Washer Relocate, SLP Wheels, Skip Shift Eliminate, Barton Flat Stick, OEM HID/Halos, Dyno Tuned by ECS

10-04-2015, 04:21 PM	#9
dentnshell Drives: Black 2014 2SS Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Oologah, OK Posts: 454 View My Garage	7500 miles. I would simply re-use the GM gaskets. I did with 15k miles (granted it was a '14) or simply order new GM gaskets from Amazon if you are concerned Make sure you spray the O2 sensors with penetrating oil PB Blaster or something of the sort not just WD40... It needs to soak for hours... 24 hours will not be overkill! I ended up having to wait on Amazon to deliver two new sensors.... I used heat and PB Blaster. Take out plugs. Make sure you take note of where the oil dipstick tube goes into the block. Watch as the wife or friend pulls it out. Torque the header bolts to 18 ft/lbs.... They are not as tight as you might think they should be. __________________ 2014 L99 2SS. 595HP/571ft-lbs Mods: LSA Conversion 2.5" Upper Pulley, 65# injectors, GPI SS1 Cam, SP Long Tubes, ADM Race Scoop & CAI, NPP exhaust (DIY control), BMR 1" lowering springs, ZL1 Rear Differential / Axles, CF Side Strip / Hood Spear, Tint - Windows / Tails / Sidemarkers, Splash Guards, ADM Boost Gauge, ABL Dashkit, '68 Script Badges, ACS T4 Splitter, ZL1 Rockers from Gary's, Z28 Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Summer - MRR FS01 Satin Black (10" Front 11" Rear) Winter, pictured-Drag DR 64's Satin Black (9" Front-10" Rear.)

10-04-2015, 04:50 PM	#10
Tenring Drives: 2014 2SS/RS - SIM Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Arizona Posts: 2,188	[QUOTE=dentnshell;8668397 Make sure you take note of where the oil dipstick tube goes into the block. [/QUOTE] Good advise, even when you know where it is supposed to go, it is still a pain to get back in.

10-04-2015, 08:42 PM	#13
fastjohnny Join Date: Jun 2014 Posts: 173	With only 7500 miles on your car, you shouldn't have any problems with getting the header bolts off, as for sealant, I wouldn't use it, I used the stock gaskets and they were fine. As for the O2 sensors a heat gun won't get hot enough, but with 7500 miles on your car I don't think you will have a problem getting them out. My car had about the same miles and didn't have any problems with dismantling. When installing the header bolts its a good idea to put antiseize on the bolts. I took a piece of making tape and marked where the oil dipstick goes in, its a blind shot, so you have to fish for the hole. Good luck with the install!

10-05-2015, 05:43 PM	#14
jshaf Montani Semper Liberi Drives: 2011 Black 2SS/RS w/ IOM stripes Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Masontown, WV Posts: 4,841	thanks for all the suggestions, will be tackling the install wednesday if all goes well! __________________ Stainless Works 1 7/8 Long Tude Headers, Stainless Works High Flow Cats, Stainless Works Retro Chambered Catback, Z/28 Air Intake, RDP Tuned, FR41 Chrome Rims, 1100W stereo, 35% Tint Last edited by jshaf; 10-05-2015 at 05:56 PM.