[NicKey]

I can tell you that we have had more than a few ZL1s as well as other 6ths Gen Camaros delivered from the selling dealership with 87 Octane Gas.

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by NicKey

I can tell you that we have had more than a few ZL1s as well as other 6ths Gen Camaros delivered from the selling dealership with 87 Octane Gas.

The dealer said they put “high octane” in when they filled it… Wouldn’t it run better after I ran the tank low and refilled with 93 octane. I’ve run through a full tank of 93 that I filled the car with.

[FRANK121]

If it is running on the low octane fuel map what does it take to get it changed?

Fill up with 93 and it will eventually adjust or would a battery disconnect for ECU reset be required?

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by gatewayracer

I just picked up my 2023 ZL1 last week and I'm in the same boat (which led me to this forum) So thank you for your post!

Traded my 2021 2SS 1LE 10 speed in for a 2023 ZL1 10 speed. I just passed 300 miles on it and have only taken it from 3k rpm to 4k (maybe a little higher lol) in 3rd and 4th gear.

I have to say, I feel like it's no faster than the 2SS 1LE I traded. Seems like 200hp would be noticeable in the driver seat.

I suppose I need to burp the intercooler since I'm seeing only 7.5 ish on the boost gauge during those pulls.

However, I was told by the dealer that after 500 miles I'd see message on the display and would see a night and day difference in the performance. Having read this thread, I see that's not the case.

Anyway, I'm following this thread in anticipation. So please post your findings, I may need to make a trip from the 314 up to Nickey.

Wow, very sorry to hear that you are having issues with your car but I’m glad to hear that I might not be totally crazy. Unfortunately, due to my wife needing surgery, I needed to reschedule my appointment with Nickey and move it to the end of May. I feel VERY fortunate to have such a qualified shop to work on my car, it will be money well spent. I’ll let you know what we/they find.

[NicKey]

Originally Posted by FRANK121

If it is running on the low octane fuel map what does it take to get it changed?

Fill up with 93 and it will eventually adjust or would a battery disconnect for ECU reset be required?

Drive cycles under boost and WOT or yes disconnect the battery over night and reconnect. Make ceratin you have good gas in it.

[raptor5244]

Originally Posted by gatewayracer

I just picked up my 2023 ZL1 last week and I'm in the same boat (which led me to this forum) So thank you for your post!

Traded my 2021 2SS 1LE 10 speed in for a 2023 ZL1 10 speed. I just passed 300 miles on it and have only taken it from 3k rpm to 4k (maybe a little higher lol) in 3rd and 4th gear.

I have to say, I feel like it's no faster than the 2SS 1LE I traded. Seems like 200hp would be noticeable in the driver seat.

I suppose I need to burp the intercooler since I'm seeing only 7.5 ish on the boost gauge during those pulls.

However, I was told by the dealer that after 500 miles I'd see message on the display and would see a night and day difference in the performance. Having read this thread, I see that's not the case.

Anyway, I'm following this thread in anticipation. So please post your findings, I may need to make a trip from the 314 up to Nickey.

FWIW, my 2021 ZL1 didn't have any software limiter during the first 500 miles like the C8 Corvette.

In order to notice the performance difference between your SS 1LE A10 and ZL1 A10, you need to keep your foot in it and let it stretch its legs. All that extra power is going to make the most difference during higher speed pulls. If you did a side by side pull at highway speeds you will see how it pulls away. At lower speeds my ZL1 A10 would typically do 3.8/3.9 0-60mph using the built-in timer. 1/4 mi runs were typically 11.5 using the timer. I assume you would run low 4s and low 12s in your SS 1LE. Once you get some more miles on it and a fresh tank of 93 octane do some pulls using the built in timer to see what you get.

[arpad_m]

Like raptor5244 said, the Camaro does not have the 500-mile rev limiter that the C8 comes with.

Your ZL1 may not launch that much harder than an SS, but it should start seriously pulling away at the 1/8th mile mark on a dragstrip, and it'll be about 1 second faster than an SS on average by the end of the quarter mile.

Below is a 1-second difference in the quarter mile (sorry, dusk was already underway). I had 540 rwhp back then in my SS and ran ZL1 times, the car in the other lane is a stock SS.

[raptor5244]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Like raptor5244 said, the Camaro does not have the 500-mile rev limiter that the C8 comes with.

Your ZL1 may not launch that much harder than an SS, but it should start seriously pulling away at the 1/8th mile mark on a dragstrip, and it'll be about 1 second faster than an SS on average by the end of the quarter mile.

Below is a 1-second difference in the quarter mile (sorry, dusk was already underway). I had 540 rwhp back then in my SS and ran ZL1 times, the car in the other lane is a stock SS.

Exactly, good visual. I have been following this thread to determine if there is really an issue with the car or if this is more about expectation setting...

Going from an A10 to an M6 with the gearing is quite different, especially with the ZL1 tall gearing and additional weight of the ZL1.

Side note: If you are looking for "lose your stomach" acceleration, I found my Tesla pulls harder down low than my ZL1 did. Even lower performing EVs shove you back in the seat noticeably more than high horsepower cars I have owned. It makes sense when you consider the torque curve is basically a square wave, so you get all the torque immediately and holds it there until it starts to fall off at around 60mph or so, unless you have a Model S Plaid.

[Greg83]

So I disconnected the battery over night to try to reset the map incase it was running on the low octane map. The car definitely seems to run better and pull harder but I still don’t think it’s 100%. For some reason when I try to load my video of the boost gauge it says “invalid file,” so I will just attach a pic of where my boost falls to and holds before I have to shift or let off the gas. Basically if I do a fifth gear pull my boost builds to about 10.5 PSI but then slowly falls to 7.5 PSI. The car even seems to be breaking up and cutting out just slightly… I use fifth gear so that I can watch the gauge over a longer period of time and see what it’s doing before I have to shift… see 7.5 PSI pic below. ��*♂️

[ZLRob]

Three things may be happening here: air in the supercharger coolant circuit (common with these systems as they have a sealed setup from the factory and no coolant reservoir.

Bad boost bypass valve causing you to drop boost as you stretch her out on the road.

Bad fuel causing you to knock like no other (really dangerous to the engine)

Regardless, take the time right now to invest in an HPTuners MPVI2 module so you can take some datalogs of what's happening digitally. Until the module arrives and you have some data to refer to, I would absolutely stay out of it otherwise risk grenade action.

At this point, these cars should come stock with HPTuners to be able to monitor knock given how sensitive these are to it and given how much on the edge to limitation thresholds these run direct from the factory.

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

Three things may be happening here: air in the supercharger coolant circuit (common with these systems as they have a sealed setup from the factory and no coolant reservoir.

Bad boost bypass valve causing you to drop boost as you stretch her out on the road.

Bad fuel causing you to knock like no other (really dangerous to the engine)

Regardless, take the time right now to invest in an HPTuners MPVI2 module so you can take some datalogs of what's happening digitally. Until the module arrives and you have some data to refer to, I would absolutely stay out of it otherwise risk grenade action.

At this point, these cars should come stock with HPTuners to be able to monitor knock given how sensitive these are to it and given how much on the edge to limitation thresholds these run direct from the factory.

ZLRob, you are probably 100% correct, unfortunately I’m very tech challenged. I think I’m just going to leave the car parked until I can get it to Nickey at the end of the month and let the pro’s handle it. This battery disconnect was my last attempt. Like you said, I don’t want to be driving, trying to log data and doing damage. Even if I had the data I would probably still need them to fix it. Either way I feel lucky to have them help me and I’m going to let them diagnose it. I just wanted to give you guys an update. I appreciate EVERYONES help and input!
Thanks guys,
Greg

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by NicKey

I can tell you that we have had more than a few ZL1s as well as other 6ths Gen Camaros delivered from the selling dealership with 87 Octane Gas.

Hi Nickey, I have an appointment to see you guys at the end of the month. I know you offered to work on the car while I wait and I might have to do that BUT IF I can get a ride home I will leave the car so your guys aren’t rushed and I’d like to dyno it if possible. Thanks again!!!

[gatewayracer]

Originally Posted by Idaho2018GTPremium

If you can do it safely on a private back road, try to get a 60-100 mph time split using the onboard timer. You should be in the mid 4s+/-. If you’re concerned about running to redline during break in short shift at 5500 rpm; it’ll add a little time to the split. Doing that a couple of times won’t hurt the engine. Try to get a couple of clean runs with quick shifting.

To get the 60-100 mph split, find a nice flat back private road. Try not to go with or against the wind if you can help it. Set the performance timer to measure 0-100. It will also measure 0-60. Take the 100 time and subtract the 60 time and you have your split. I’d start at about 40 mph in 2nd, then roll into it and be full throttle by 50 mph or so. You have to start the timer from a stop, but your split from 0-60 doesn’t matter; you just have to complete the 0-100 split within about 30 seconds or so. What matters is you are wide open before 60 and stay on it until 101. Again; make sure you’re way out on a back (private) road and it’s completely safe (no driveways, houses, etc.). M6 SS 1LEs should be in the 5s.

Not the OP here, but I posted in this thread since I felt the same as the OP as far as not noticing the extra 200 HP.

Anyway, I reached my break in point and went to a stretch of rarely used back highway separated by 1/4 mile of land between oncoming traffic and did a few pulls. Tires were warm and air temps in the high 70's and the stretch of road was flat as a pancake.

The first pull was in track mode /race and using the drag race launch control. At the release of the brake, the car sputtered (I felt like there was a problem) and the car seemed like it was trying but barley moving from 0-35ish, then after about 35 mph it laid me back in the seat through the 100 mph pull. Times were 4.50 at 60 mph and 8.50 at 101.

The second pull, I held the TC button down for 5 secs in track mode which turned off both ESC
and Traction control (all on me). I launched similar to the first run, I came to a complete stop, hit the throttle and couldn't keep the tires from spinning (38 psi per the dic) so I just aborted!

Third pull, still set in track mode with ESC and Traction control off, I launched with part throttle and was full throttle by 35 mph. Needless to say, the 0-60 was bad just like the 1st pull but the 60 to 100 was an exact duplicate of the 1st pull using launch control.

My 2021 2ss 1LE drag race launch was 4.2 to 60mph from timer (which was the 1st and only drag launch I did ever with the car, which was also on a back road). However, it never fell on its face and sputtered like the ZL1 which only had a 4.5 0-60 using the drag race launch control.

I suppose the ZL1 just needs some traction to keep the nannies from kicking in?

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by gatewayracer

Not the OP here, but I posted in this thread since I felt the same as the OP as far as not noticing the extra 200 HP.

Anyway, I reached my break in point and went to a stretch of rarely used back highway separated by 1/4 mile of land between oncoming traffic and did a few pulls. Tires were warm and air temps in the high 70's and the stretch of road was flat as a pancake.

The first pull was in track mode /race and using the drag race launch control. At the release of the brake, the car sputtered (I felt like there was a problem) and the car seemed like it was trying but barley moving from 0-35ish, then after about 35 mph it laid me back in the seat through the 100 mph pull. Times were 4.50 at 60 mph and 8.50 at 101.

The second pull, I held the TC button down for 5 secs in track mode which turned off both ESC
and Traction control (all on me). I launched similar to the first run, I came to a complete stop, hit the throttle and couldn't keep the tires from spinning (38 psi per the dic) so I just aborted!

Third pull, still set in track mode with ESC and Traction control off, I launched with part throttle and was full throttle by 35 mph. Needless to say, the 0-60 was bad just like the 1st pull but the 60 to 100 was an exact duplicate of the 1st pull using launch control.

My 2021 2ss 1LE drag race launch was 4.2 to 60mph from timer (which was the 1st and only drag launch I did ever with the car, which was also on a back road). However, it never fell on its face and sputtered like the ZL1 which only had a 4.5 0-60 using the drag race launch control.

I suppose the ZL1 just needs some traction to keep the nannies from kicking in?

Your SS is easier to launch due to less power. ZL1 takes a little more finesse unless you have drag radials. You're not going to be full throttle until 25 or so on the street from a dead stop.

Don't bother using the factory launch control. It's ok but not great. Doing it old school is better and more consistent.

If you really want to see if the car is down on power then you need to do a 60 to 130 run with the dragy app. If it's between 7.9 and 8.2, then the car is giving you 100% of its power.