[Idaho2018GTPremium]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

There isn't a S/C coolant reservoir from the factory.

Good point; I meant to say engine coolant reservoir.

[Greg83]

Hey guys, today I put in a full tank of 93 and bled the supercharger system. I got a small burp of tiny bubbles with multiple bleeds at different times, not much air at all. The car still doesn’t seem to pull like it should… for example, it’s only 60 degrees here, I did a second gear pull (manual M6 trans) from 3000 rpm’s and it barely spins the tires. Shouldn’t it break the tires loose. It really feels more like my SS-1LE and not like my 2020 A10 ZL1 that had major traction problems due to the power.

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

Originally Posted by Greg83

Hey guys, today I put in a full tank of 93 and bled the supercharger system. I got a small burp of tiny bubbles with multiple bleeds at different times, not much air at all. The car still doesn’t seem to pull like it should… for example, it’s only 60 degrees here, I did a second gear pull (manual M6 trans) from 3000 rpm’s and it barely spins the tires. Shouldn’t it break the tires loose. It really feels more like my SS-1LE and not like my 2020 A10 ZL1 that had major traction problems due to the power.

With the M6 gearing 2nd is almost identical to 3rd in the A10.
M6: 1.63 (2nd) and 3.73 rear is very close to 2.15 (3rd A10) and 2.85 rear end. So, the M6 in 2nd will feel very much like 3rd in the A10.

Next I would check to make sure there’s no unknown foreign restriction in the intake tract. Start with the intake box, then check all the way to the TB. It’s pretty easy to remove the intake tube.

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

If you can do it safely on a private back road, try to get a 60-100 mph time split using the onboard timer. You should be in the mid 4s+/-. If you’re concerned about running to redline during break in short shift at 5500 rpm; it’ll add a little time to the split. Doing that a couple of times won’t hurt the engine. Try to get a couple of clean runs with quick shifting.

To get the 60-100 mph split, find a nice flat back private road. Try not to go with or against the wind if you can help it. Set the performance timer to measure 0-100. It will also measure 0-60. Take the 100 time and subtract the 60 time and you have your split. I’d start at about 40 mph in 2nd, then roll into it and be full throttle by 50 mph or so. You have to start the timer from a stop, but your split from 0-60 doesn’t matter; you just have to complete the 0-100 split within about 30 seconds or so. What matters is you are wide open before 60 and stay on it until 101. Again; make sure you’re way out on a back (private) road and it’s completely safe (no driveways, houses, etc.). M6 SS 1LEs should be in the 5s.

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by Idaho2018GTPremium

If you can do it safely on a private back road, try to get a 60-100 mph time split using the onboard timer. You should be in the mid 4s+/-. If you’re concerned about running to redline during break in short shift at 5500 rpm; it’ll add a little time to the split. Doing that a couple of times won’t hurt the engine. Try to get a couple of clean runs with quick shifting.

To get the 60-100 mph split, find a nice flat back private road. Try not to go with or against the wind if you can help it. Set the performance timer to measure 0-100. It will also measure 0-60. Take the 100 time and subtract the 60 time and you have your split. I’d start at about 40 mph in 2nd, then roll into it and be full throttle by 50 mph or so. You have to start the timer from a stop, but your split from 0-60 doesn’t matter; you just have to complete the 0-100 split within about 30 seconds or so. What matters is you are wide open before 60 and stay on it until 101. Again; make sure you’re way out on a back (private) road and it’s completely safe (no driveways, houses, etc.). M6 SS 1LEs should be in the 5s.

Definitely don’t want to take it over 4000rpm until I get at least the first 500 break-in miles but after that I will try to get some times to post! I assume if I took it to the dealer they would just plug it in, probably see no codes, and say everything is fine… But I guess I’ll give them a shot when it’s time for my first free oil change at 500 miles.

[raptor5244]

Originally Posted by Greg83

Hey guys, today I put in a full tank of 93 and bled the supercharger system. I got a small burp of tiny bubbles with multiple bleeds at different times, not much air at all. The car still doesn’t seem to pull like it should… for example, it’s only 60 degrees here, I did a second gear pull (manual M6 trans) from 3000 rpm’s and it barely spins the tires. Shouldn’t it break the tires loose. It really feels more like my SS-1LE and not like my 2020 A10 ZL1 that had major traction problems due to the power.

FWIW, I don't think there is anything wrong with your car.

The ZL1 M6 has taller gearing than your SS-1LE, which may be what you are noticing. Real world, both of these cars in M6 trim run 0-60mph in the low 4s. Where you should notice the performance difference is during the high speed pulls where the ZL1 can stretch its legs with the tall gearing. The SS-1LE has less power but the shorter gearing/torque multiplication of the SS-1LE M6 makes up for a lot of the SOTP feel.

In general, the LT4 M6 gearing shared across the ZL1, Blackwing and C7 Z06 blows. Great for a road course but it is too tall to really enjoy on the street. I am driving a CT4V - Blackwing now with an M6 (SS gearing) and it feels just as quick as my ZL1 at typical street speeds. The ZL1 was noticeably quicker during highway pulls from around 80mph-130mph though where all that extra horsepower can be put to use.

Now the ZL1 with the A10 is a different animal, again due to the gearing. The A10 has shorter gears and more of them all tightly spaced and rips through the shifts while keeping you in boost. Faster but of course lacks the engagement of the manual.

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

Originally Posted by Greg83

Definitely don’t want to take it over 4000rpm until I get at least the first 500 break-in miles but after that I will try to get some times to post! I assume if I took it to the dealer they would just plug it in, probably see no codes, and say everything is fine… But I guess I’ll give them a shot when it’s time for my first free oil change at 500 miles.

OK, but just don't baby it - you gotta seat the rings and you can't do that properly babying it. You should check out how engine builders break in engines and seat the rings. It involves moderate and then WOT pulls from low rpm to 75% of the engine redline followed by engine braking, a few times each. You need pressure and heat in the cylinders to seat the rings properly. Needs to be done early in the engine's life.

[SHE'Z 18]

Hey OP / All,
Here’s a good video I found regarding bleeding air from the system. I purchased this fitting and plan to perform this process this year myself.

https://youtu.be/9I4m-BP0Gsw

And another one showing the same process, but without the special fitting

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MMphi_3xgCc

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by SHE'Z 18

Hey OP / All,
Here’s a good video I found regarding bleeding air from the system. I purchased this fitting and plan to perform this process this year myself.

https://youtu.be/9I4m-BP0Gsw

And another one showing the same process, but without the special fitting

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MMphi_3xgCc

Yes, I saw those and have been using the second procedure. I even bled the two brass bolts on the aluminum line just in front of the supercharger that I saw a guy doing on his C7 Z06. THANKS for the info!!! I did get some small bubbles out.

On a side note guys, how hot is the top of your supercharger after a drive. I was a little surprised that I was able to put my hand on top of it while bleeding it. Seems like I’m getting AT LEAST 7.5 PSI of boost per the gauge on my dash, so it seems that it’s working?

[SHE'Z 18]

Originally Posted by Greg83

Yes, I saw those and have been using the second procedure. I even bled the two brass bolts on the aluminum line just in front of the supercharger that I saw a guy doing on his C7 Z06. THANKS for the info!!! I did get some small bubbles out.

On a side note guys, how hot is the top of your supercharger after a drive. I was a little surprised that I was able to put my hand on top of it while bleeding it. Seems like I’m getting AT LEAST 7.5 PSI of boost per the gauge on my dash, so it seems that it’s working?

You betcha!! Glad to help. And, I know exactly what C7 video you’re referring to. I actually have that one saved in my library as well (link below). Keep us updated on your findings.

https://youtu.be/QgNS9fVJbco

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Greg83

Yes, I saw those and have been using the second procedure. I even bled the two brass bolts on the aluminum line just in front of the supercharger that I saw a guy doing on his C7 Z06. THANKS for the info!!! I did get some small bubbles out.

On a side note guys, how hot is the top of your supercharger after a drive. I was a little surprised that I was able to put my hand on top of it while bleeding it. Seems like I’m getting AT LEAST 7.5 PSI of boost per the gauge on my dash, so it seems that it’s working?

That's below spec, though. Yes, the gauge in the DIC is only an approximation, but you should see 9.5 at least, and I've seen the needle cross the white 10 psi tick on stock ZL1s. It's possible that you weren't able to bleed out all the air, and the 2 psi you're missing is worth 40-50 hp.

[Greg83]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

That's below spec, though. Yes, the gauge in the DIC is only an approximation, but you should see 9.5 at least, and I've seen the needle cross the white 10 psi tick on stock ZL1s. It's possible that you weren't able to bleed out all the air, and the 2 psi you're missing is worth 40-50 hp.

That’s 7.5 PSI below 4000 RPM but it seems to level off at 7.5. Would it build more boost above 4000 RPM? Maybe my bypass valve needs adjustment? I think I’m going to try to get my 500 miles on her asap so I can comfortably go above 4000 RPM, then I’ll let the dealer do the first oil change and take a look… I think I’ve gotten all the air out of the system and have even jacked up that side of the car on my inclined driveway to help. Maybe I’ll buy that bleeder tool.
If the dealer doesn’t find anything maybe I can find another ZL1 to test drive and compare or if another forum member lives near Mokena IL, we could meet and compare cars…
Thanks for all the good advice everyone!!!

[Gunkk]

ZL1s don't spin their tires (when new) as much as you might expect. Everything about the car is designed for traction, not drifting. Back in the summer of 2017 I could get my car to hook just fine on 0-60 pulls on warm days. Rarely spun the tires in Sport and never in Tour, Wet or Track. Drive mode matters.

That said, almost 6 years later it easily breaks its nearly slick still factory OEM 9800 mile hard as hockey puck tires loose with ease in sport mode. Breaking tires loose in track, tour, or snow/wet mode is far less likely as the car will cut throttle to maintain traction.

OP, you can monitor engine and trans torque PIDs on basic OBD2 readers IIRC. Might not hurt to invest a couple benjamins in a scan tool that can read them and log the data, along with knock retard and all the rest of the things folks usually look at. If the car is misbehaving, you'll see it in the data. Data will be far more reliable than any diagnosis or advice you receive over the internet, including this. For example, if the intercooler pump is not working, you'll see high IATs and timing being pulled. Faulty knock sensor? Yep. The list goes on. I'll have to admit the lack of soot in the exhaust is new to me.

For break-in, my advice is to follow the crate engine procedure starting at step #6 (steps one to five were done at the factory). Do your first oil change at 500 miles (i.e. skip step 10). Then follow the owner's manual break-in to 1500. Don't hammer the car too hard until after 1500 miles to give the rear diff gears time to work-harden, and change the diff oil at 1500. Send the engine oil samples to blackstone labs for a baseline. Another excellent way to get hard data on the health of your engine.

[WhiteMale]

Id swear that Ive seen pics of cars with the bypass not set correctly.