[RyanD]

Hey guys,

I'm swapping out my third brake light on my 17 SS 1LE for the GM dark version. When I removed my original light I found rust, mainly where the retaining clips on the light contact the trunk lid.

I've never done any rust repair myself and normally I wouldn't be afraid to touch these spots up myself since it's in a hidden area. The only thing is I can see some bubbling spreading under the paint by one of the spots which makes me think it wouldn't be an easy repair. Got an estimate from my body shop, $900 to repair and then repaint the trunk lid.

Have you guys seen this before? Any recommendations on how to repair this before I install the new light? Thanks so much in advance!

[ctrlz]

Lift the floor mat and see if any water or rust in the deep part of the trunk. Hopefully just the gasket around the light leaking and not the main trunk lid seal.

[Hostile_1LE]

At that point, I would take it as sign to get a carbon fiber trunk. only an extra $500, it won't rust, and its lighter.

[Chutzpah]

It’s an easy repair if you know what you’re doing and aren’t worried about complete perfection to your eyes. I’d be a little concerned that the rust has carried past the bubbled area. Not a huge deal, but that adds to the time / complexity a bit.

Don’t take what I say as gospel, but this is what I’d do.

Use a tiny screw driver to peal back the loose areas. Use a Dremel with a small, straight stainless steel wire brush to clean the rust (low speed, light pressure). Use Q tip and coat the steel (only) with rust reformer (let dry completely), spray rustoleum primer on a Q tip and go over the rust reformer (let dry), Get yourself some touch up paint. The important part here is very light coats and a very small brush. You can do a couple light coats in a day, but that’s it. Wait a couple days for those coats to dry (the paint will shrink). Recoat if necessary, or very lightly polish exposed edges (things you’ll be able to see when reassembled). Reassemble when all is completely dry.


I like the idea of checking for water in the trunk. That makes a lot of sense on what may have started the process or may even be a result of the light seal failing.

[PostalLDMC]

Just a light sanding with some 400 wet/dry sandpaper. Tape off the area out side where the rust stops. Dry it good, Spray a little rust stop let is sit and dry good the then pick up some touch up paint that matches your color, year, of car. The part is after sanding lightly pull the tape then, tape again each time you do anything different. All so really light coats on each step so you don't get sags or runs. It may not match exact, but the light will hide most of what you did anyway. Good luck

[crysalis_01]

Looks like it's time to part it out.


But seriously, whatever repair method you attempt, make sure you're VERY thorough and that you check on it and the area around it, periodically even after the aforementioned repair work. Just to make sure it doesn't spread unnoticed.

[RyanD]

Thanks all for the recommendations, really helpful, I'll look into all of these!

[WhiteMale]

I would only be concerned about it hitting the paint in the future sometime, it's already in to the paint, the rust on it's own I don't care about, per se. I don't know if you're still in any outside chance of the warranty as far as rust and corrosion, isn't that >5yrs/60K whatever?

[m6-lt1]

Rust through corrosion warranty is 6 years 100k. Not sure if this falls under that but I figured I’d mention it as there’s a small chance your car is a late 2017 and might be just under 6 years old.

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by PostalLDMC

Just a light sanding with some 400 wet/dry sandpaper. Tape off the area out side where the rust stops. Dry it good, Spray a little rust stop let is sit and dry good the then pick up some touch up paint that matches your color, year, of car.

^ this.

[RyanD]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

Rust through corrosion warranty is 6 years 100k. Not sure if this falls under that but I figured I’d mention it as there’s a small chance your car is a late 2017 and might be just under 6 years old.

Just checked this....expired in July, just my luck

[WhiteMale]

I do think you can diy it with some sand paper and a Rustoleum though Im sure there are better coating type products than available. Me myself I would tackle that that a body shop and that cost.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

I do think you can diy it with some sand paper and a Rustoleum...

If the rust is not visible with the light in place, I would go the sandpaper and rustoleum route.
This is based on my experience with driers on the liquid line for A/C condensers. They always rust (I live close to the ocean) and the factory paint pops off. HVAC guys want like $300-400 to replace these, which includes the recovery/recharge... blah, blah, blah. I read on an HVAC forum that you can just sand off most of the surface rust and spray them with rustoleum. Might have to redo it every 2-3 years, but the drier will last as long as the condenser. Sure enough, this works!

[m6-lt1]

If you don’t want to tackle it yourself try a different body shop. I had rust on the very lower portion of the inside of my drivers side door just above the factory caulking on my last 6th gen. Body shop did exactly what people here are suggesting you do to fix it. Only paid like 250.