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Old 03-18-2020, 09:25 AM   #29
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If it's a true GF6-B it will have the API certification in a black and white chevron shape and say 0W16 in the center of it. Otherwise it's just a patch oil until the real stuff comes out and I've heard May is the release date.

The GF6-A will be a retro oil for all older cars pre-DI.
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Old 03-18-2020, 09:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xstuntman View Post
If it's a true GF6-B it will have the API certification in a black and white chevron shape and say 0W16 in the center of it. Otherwise it's just a patch oil until the real stuff comes out and I've heard May is the release date.

The GF6-A will be a retro oil for all older cars pre-DI.
You are correct. The label is not allowed to be put on until may 1, 2020. AMSOil already meets GF6-B and the labels will be added then, from my research. That’s why I switched to AMSOil.
So the question is: do we need these new redesigned catch cans with the new oil or will our old “outdated” cans be ok with the new oil?
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Old 03-18-2020, 09:58 AM   #31
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Pennzoil says its the same oil, I'm going to stay with the Pennzoil. This is the 1st time I looked at the valves so who knows what they looked like 30k ago. You would never know driving it that it has this much carbon on the valves. I can't wait to clean them up and see how it runs afterwards. For the size of this engine with good fuel it does perform. I can see why GM is putting it in just about everything.
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Old 03-19-2020, 06:04 PM   #32
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I have the same seat of pants feel misfire in mine at times. Mostly in 6 gear around 45 mph I can feel a slight misfire but its nothing really bothersome. I've heard alot of other people complain about it too. Using premium fuel its mostly gone. I'm on the fence what to do with this car. Trade it for a non GDI car or dig into solving the valve intake issue. My rear cylinder valves are badly carbon ed up, the frts don't look too bad.

I notice the oil getting into the intake is not only from the PCV valve but from the breather tube at the frt of the throttle body. When I pull that large hose off its always wet with oil. How do you stop that?
That means the fixed orifice PCV valve is clogged shut. There's your problem. Its now trying to lower crankcase pressure through the clean side. My valves have a little bit of carbon on them, but that very much. One i use pennzoil ultra platinum oil, not the lower just platinum. I make sure the PCV is clean at ever oil change. I have no oil before the throttle body. On the inside of the intake. There is a lite film if you run your finger in there. You don't see it but can feel its a bit slick.

I would pull the left side valve cover at this point. Clean it out, including the PCV. Putting the catch can on will not fix your problem of the plugged PCV system. Just fix it right then maintain it.
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Old 03-22-2020, 04:41 AM   #33
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Here's an excerpt from and email I received from Elite Engineering after I sent a question to them regarding their Standard Catch Can vs their E2-X Catch Can with Clean Air Separator:

Our Standard Catch Can does a great job, but our newer designed E2 and E2X Catch Cans just do a little better job of separating the oil vapor from your PCV system.
To be honest, I don't know if it's really worth the extra to change out the Catch Cans, your Standard set-up should be doing a good job.

Seems to contradict post 18 in this thread?
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Old 03-22-2020, 11:53 AM   #34
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A few questions. Is it possible to do a borescope to inspect the intake valves or is intake manifold removal required? Also, to do the walnut shell blast do you need to remove the heads? If not, how do you keep the media from entering unwanted areas?
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Old 03-22-2020, 07:42 PM   #35
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ariZona28--I haven't done it, nor have I seen anyone specifically state it, but I believe you work one cylinder at a time with piston at TDC. I would stuff rags in every intake runner but the one I was cleaning to ensure blast media doesn't inadvertently get into a cylinder. After finishing the cleaning on the first cylinder, I would rotate the engine (by hand) to the next cylinder at TDC and repeat the process.
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Old 03-24-2020, 05:32 AM   #36
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Tape off the intakes you're not blasting, and have the crank rotated so the valves are closed on the one you are working on. Use a vacuum to suck out as much of the media as you can before moving on.
http://youtu.be/KFvXbTIiAVY
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Old 04-08-2020, 12:25 PM   #37
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I just replaced Elite Engineering's Standard Catch Can with their Single Valve E2-X Catch Can. I also installed the Clean Side Separator. I thought I'd ordered the Dual Valve, but received the Single Valve. Both appear to be the same price.
*Correction. I've contacted them about retrofitting this Single Valve can to the Dual Valve style; another $45.00.



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