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Old 02-24-2017, 12:59 PM   #29
gdgraph

 
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Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS
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I guess I am still a little confused of what you actually did to your exhaust because you are using terms like "AFM sensors" and talking about welding the original sensors back on, so just to clarify, what exactly did you modify?

- The metal pieces that the lines are pointing to (in the picture I uploaded) on the actual exhaust are the actual valves (forward valves are the AFM valves or dampers / rear valves by the muffler are the NPP valves for the sound management).
- The plastic piece that bolts onto the valves/dampers (with 3 small bolts) are the actuators, they are electrical motors that actuate or move the "butterfly type" valves open or closed.
- Then there is a connector that plugs into the actuator to provide power to the electrical actuator (motor) power. There is no sensor in this part of the exhaust system, the only sensors in the exhaust are located upstream by the cats (those are the O2 sensors).

All of that said, what modifications did you make to the stock exhaust?
- Did you delete any of the 4 metal valves (either NPP or AFM valves)?
- Did you delete any of the 4 actuators (either the NPP or AFM actuators), and if so what did you do to the electronic plug that leads to that actuator?
(I attached a picture showing what I am calling a valve & an actuator - note this is just showing the oned for the NPP, it's going to be the same components on the AFM located upstream from the mufflers shown in the earlier pic I posted)

Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I understand what you've got on the car before I say anything. Another thing that comes to mind is that a CEL can occur sometimes when you increase pipe diameter because it takes away back pressure from the system depending on how much of the exhaust was upsized and by how much you upsized it.



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Originally Posted by SamMoranPranks View Post
That's awesome, man! I have found that cars are getting smarter than me and any type of mod could potentially throw a code since they're so sensitive. In your opinion, is it bad to run my car with those AFM sensors unplugged, or is the only "bad" thing the fact that it's throwing a CEL? The car runs perfect. I just have the light on now. Thinking of just buying the bypass sensors instead of having to weld the originals back on with the pipe it came attached to.
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Last edited by gdgraph; 02-24-2017 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:10 PM   #30
Richard0nee

 
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I can be wrong but I don't think NPP have sensors just an actuator about 2" from the tips. People have pulled the NPP fuse including myself in the past and there is never a check engine light.

I'm willing to bet the OP pulled the AFM sensors.
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:21 PM   #31
gdgraph

 
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There are no sensors... only actuators and valves. I've taken the AFM actuators off the stock exhaust, installed them on the magnaflow, then back to stock, and then to the Borla, I never installed/uninstalled any sensors, only the actuators that move the valves.

The assumption I have is he installed a mid pipe with no AFM valves and just never plugged the AFM actuators back in (because there's nowhere to put them) and the cable that runs the AFM actuator is just dangling there, but I don't want to speculate, which is why I am asking him what he did.

If that is the case, the simple fix is to either get a tune that deletes the AFM functionality or to buy a AFM range device that plugs in under the dash, here's one company that makes one, unfortunately they run around $175-200. As far as the question of running the car without that for the short term probably won't hurt anything, but the purpose of the AFM valves is to provide the adequate back pressure (valves begin to close) when you go into cylinder shut down mode. Long term it's not the best for your car because there's not enough back pressure which is a very similar problem if you increase your pipe diameter too much, solution is to get a tune.

http://www.rangetechnology.com/pages/v8


Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard0nee View Post
I can be wrong but I don't think NPP have sensors just an actuator about 2" from the tips. People have pulled the NPP fuse including myself in the past and there is never a check engine light.

I'm willing to bet the OP pulled the AFM sensors.

Last edited by gdgraph; 02-24-2017 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 02-24-2017, 05:11 PM   #32
SamMoranPranks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdgraph View Post
I guess I am still a little confused of what you actually did to your exhaust because you are using terms like "AFM sensors" and talking about welding the original sensors back on, so just to clarify, what exactly did you modify?

- The metal pieces that the lines are pointing to (in the picture I uploaded) on the actual exhaust are the actual valves (forward valves are the AFM valves or dampers / rear valves by the muffler are the NPP valves for the sound management).
- The plastic piece that bolts onto the valves/dampers (with 3 small bolts) are the actuators, they are electrical motors that actuate or move the "butterfly type" valves open or closed.
- Then there is a connector that plugs into the actuator to provide power to the electrical actuator (motor) power. There is no sensor in this part of the exhaust system, the only sensors in the exhaust are located upstream by the cats (those are the O2 sensors).

All of that said, what modifications did you make to the stock exhaust?
- Did you delete any of the 4 metal valves (either NPP or AFM valves)?
- Did you delete any of the 4 actuators (either the NPP or AFM actuators), and if so what did you do to the electronic plug that leads to that actuator?
(I attached a picture showing what I am calling a valve & an actuator - note this is just showing the oned for the NPP, it's going to be the same components on the AFM located upstream from the mufflers shown in the earlier pic I posted)

Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I understand what you've got on the car before I say anything. Another thing that comes to mind is that a CEL can occur sometimes when you increase pipe diameter because it takes away back pressure from the system depending on how much of the exhaust was upsized and by how much you upsized it.
Yeah, that's my fault man. I unplugged the Actuators. The two in the front right after the factory resonator. I unplugged those and the two by the tips at the very end of the exhaust.
I unplugged those actuators and now the CEL is on. I'm going to go ahead and just have them cut the original price of pipe off with the actuator and value attached to it to weld it onto the aftermark pipes I put on.

Thanks for all your help man. You really helped me realize what those actuators do and everything. I appreciate it!
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Old 02-24-2017, 05:45 PM   #33
gdgraph

 
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So you actually got rid of all 4 out of the 4 valves in your aftermarket set up? Your aftermarket set up does not have valves for AFM or NPP?

It may be a little difficult to weld any of the 4 valves back into your aftermarket exhaust since it has a larger diameter than the stock set-up, but if you really trust your exhaust shop they may be able to make it work, luckily it's only a 1/4" larger, they may be able to fill in the area with weld beads.

Also our cars do not have resonators, coming off of the headers you have your cats and immediately after that is your secondary cat (it is monitored so no O2 sensors after the secondary cats).

Just out of curiosity, what brand are the mid pipes and axle back?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SamMoranPranks View Post
Yeah, that's my fault man. I unplugged the Actuators. The two in the front right after the factory resonator. I unplugged those and the two by the tips at the very end of the exhaust.
I unplugged those actuators and now the CEL is on. I'm going to go ahead and just have them cut the original price of pipe off with the actuator and value attached to it to weld it onto the aftermark pipes I put on.

Thanks for all your help man. You really helped me realize what those actuators do and everything. I appreciate it!
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Old 03-06-2017, 11:31 AM   #34
SamMoranPranks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdgraph View Post
So you actually got rid of all 4 out of the 4 valves in your aftermarket set up? Your aftermarket set up does not have valves for AFM or NPP?

It may be a little difficult to weld any of the 4 valves back into your aftermarket exhaust since it has a larger diameter than the stock set-up, but if you really trust your exhaust shop they may be able to make it work, luckily it's only a 1/4" larger, they may be able to fill in the area with weld beads.

Also our cars do not have resonators, coming off of the headers you have your cats and immediately after that is your secondary cat (it is monitored so no O2 sensors after the secondary cats).

Just out of curiosity, what brand are the mid pipes and axle back?
Well, on the SS models there are no resonators. But on the V6 models there is a huge H-pipe resonator after the secondary cats and then the NPP exhaust. However, I removed all 4 Actuators, not knowing that they were for the AFM. It's my fault for doing that and getting the CEL. I'm buying the bypass actuators to help get rid of that light.

I didn't buy an aftermarket system. I just did 2 1/2 in straight pipes from the first cats back to an X-Pipe then a muffler delete. So I don't really have an "aftermarket" system. Just straight piping

Thanks for all your help man. It's really been appreciated. I understand those actuators a lot more now.
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Old 03-06-2017, 01:37 PM   #35
gdgraph

 
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Yeah, if you just get yourself one of those AFM range devices to turn off the AFM that should take care of your CEL and you should be fine afterwards.

Do you have any sound clips of your set up? I'm very curious to hear what the V6 sounds like with straight pipes! Bet it sounds mean.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SamMoranPranks View Post
Well, on the SS models there are no resonators. But on the V6 models there is a huge H-pipe resonator after the secondary cats and then the NPP exhaust. However, I removed all 4 Actuators, not knowing that they were for the AFM. It's my fault for doing that and getting the CEL. I'm buying the bypass actuators to help get rid of that light.

I didn't buy an aftermarket system. I just did 2 1/2 in straight pipes from the first cats back to an X-Pipe then a muffler delete. So I don't really have an "aftermarket" system. Just straight piping

Thanks for all your help man. It's really been appreciated. I understand those actuators a lot more now.
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