[18ss376]

JMO, I'll take the 219 over the 224 @ .050 but would like to see .600 lift I/E max & have the heads flow to match the cam. Just want a good street/strip cam with stock idle rpm.

[oldman]

it would be my opinion, to lose some exhaust to cut down overlap so I would think the smooth idle cam 223/227 is a better smooth cam vs 219/230 or even 224 /236. the Tx Speed smooth idle works a lot better within the parameter of smooth idle, keeps the intake which provides the power and the phaser for "stock like" performance.

[6spdhyperblue]

The exhaust/intake flow ratio on the lt1 is on the low end, I’d love to keep the dcr up but I’d def want to clear out the cylinder too. Thoughts?

[oldman]

I think the ugly LT1 exhaust flows well enough.
So for ANY cam posted, one can say a bit more exhaust will add power and help on bleed down. Yep absolutely. Any cam posted will idle just that much poorer for any duration change intake / or exhaust. My point is the Texas speed 223 /227 on 116 is probably a better cam in terms of power than the 219 /230 with the same idle.

[18ss376]

Originally Posted by oldman

I think the ugly LT1 exhaust flows well enough.
So for ANY cam posted, one can say a bit more exhaust will add power and help on bleed down. Yep absolutely. Any cam posted will idle just that much poorer for any duration change intake / or exhaust. My point is the Texas speed 223 /227 on 116 is probably a better cam in terms of power than the 219 /230 with the same idle.

I wouldn't want the TSP cam surge like "Zboy136" said.

[6spdhyperblue]

Originally Posted by 18ss376

I wouldn't want the TSP cam surge like "Zboy136" said.

To clarify zboy was speaking about his tsp stage 2, 232/235

[oldman]

that little bit means there is overlap at .050 on a standard 116 LSA...

[DFW1LE]

If you are NA and do not want to lose low end torque, a tighter LSA and/or advance ground in will help you. Even with overlap your car can drive pretty darn well. If you are looking to make big power, most of the shops are locking out the VVT cam phasers (0* lockout block) and just relying on the cams valve events. Cam phase limiters can get flaky over time and potentially lead to engine damage.

[biker2k]

So ...
I’d like a cam that: basically idles like stock (small lope only perceptae if listening for it)
Makes linear power from 2000 to Peaking at 6500 (not 5800 like stock)
And because I’m greedy don’t want to lose any torque
And of course more power

[GuywithL86]

Originally Posted by biker2k

So ...
I’d like a cam that: basically idles like stock (small lope only perceptae if listening for it)
Makes linear power from 2000 to Peaking at 6500 (not 5800 like stock)
And because I’m greedy don’t want to lose any torque
And of course more power

Lt1 makes peak torque at like 4100

[oldman]

Originally Posted by biker2k

So ...
I’d like a cam that: basically idles like stock (small lope only perceptae if listening for it)
Makes linear power from 2000 to Peaking at 6500 (not 5800 like stock)
And because I’m greedy don’t want to lose any torque
And of course more power

actually if you can handle a lope, a tight 110 to 112 LSA will do all that on a 220 / 230 ish maybe peaking lower at 6200 but would not fall off the cliff at 6500. tight LSA build mid range torque, the draw back is idle. Cam motion with a 4 degree limiter to get +6 advance on the bottom end, +2 at the top.

TxSpeed has a 116 LSA in all flavors that work with their 20 degree limiter

for a power peak at 6500 you will need a stage II+ cam so 230 ish

[18ss376]

Originally Posted by biker2k

So ...
I’d like a cam that: basically idles like stock (small lope only perceptae if listening for it)
Makes linear power from 2000 to Peaking at 6500 (not 5800 like stock)
And because I’m greedy don’t want to lose any torque
And of course more power

If you don't complement your cam with better heads & headers your not going to get all the power out of any cam.

[6spdhyperblue]

I’m thinking I want to get beehives work to keep spring pressure down. Im thinking it will extend the life of the phaser.

Find some soft ramp rates(give up some power) and maybe get some power back from the weaker springs

[oldman]

if you are going with DoD, then Cam Motion makes a nice set of beehives to .600 lift. Bout all the pressure the DoD can take IMO, maybe even phaser can take? dunno.

If you are going .600 to .650 then forget the beehive, either go Comp Cam conical or a dual spring setup. If I had the time I would have gone conical. I did not have time and Texas Speed is down my street, so I did their dual setup, which was spec for their ground cam: Pray supercharged, had a cool built in spring seat with valve seal.

I do think the Texas Speed cam is going to make more power then duration vs duration than any other cam:
1) they use the 20 degree phaser
2) they have an aggressive ramp
3) they in general have more lift

The disadvantage: you better get pushrods, trunions, and change valve springs often, and IMO the phaser is suspect.
This is a hobby for me and I'm a worry wart. So if I were to do it again, I'd do a Cam Motion solid gear cam (VVT delete), don't care about the slightly better drivability or a slight power gain (due to both VVT and faster ramp).