[jrs580]

Originally Posted by carlosgrana

Yes we love the track here
for the street toyo proxes R888
for the track slicks for good E.T.

On the proxies, do you have any trouble with the 315 30s on the back or do you jmrun a smaller rim?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by jrs580

On the proxies, do you have any trouble with the 315 30s on the back or do you jmrun a smaller rim?

315 will rub the plastic inner fenders.

Ted.

[jrs580]

the proxies are only available in 315 30 for 20 inch rims, whats your suggestion for an equal tire that may come in a 305 30?

[KingLT1]

Nitto NT555

[1le32907]

How about Michelin ps4s might be the best tire out after hours of research

[brandin10]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

It all comes down to what your ultimate future goal is.

I just had this conversation in another thread, 6 psi of boost is 6 psi of boost and will make similar power no matter the supercharger you select.

The out of the box kits are all making the same power at the same boost level.

It is not until we get involved and offer smaller pulleys, additional components and custom tuning that we start to see bigger gains.

If you know you will continue to grow into your supercharger then bigger is better.

Remember the fuel system is limited on this car so you will need to consider that when planning your build.

The 2300 is the smallest supercharger I would select for any build.

Mine is currently at 575 RWHP with just the addition of a smaller pulley, fuel pump voltage booster and custom tuning, through factory air box and factory cats and exhaust.

Ted.

Hi Ted what do you think the safe WHP limit is with the addition of just a fuel pump voltage booster. I'm currently running a cam and a Maggie.

Thank You

[PackersFan26]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Nitto NT555

X2

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by brandin10

Hi Ted what do you think the safe WHP limit is with the addition of just a fuel pump voltage booster. I'm currently running a cam and a Maggie.

Thank You

You must monitor 4 things, Low side fuel pressure, High side fuel pressure, injector pulse width, and AFR.

When you see Low fuel pressure drop, High pressure drop or exceed 6 milliseconds of injector time it is time to upgrade.

I would expect you can get to around 650 RWHP with the cam and blower combo but you never really know unless you log.

Ted.

[MP3BOOSTED]

Originally Posted by carlosgrana

Hi my build consist of a Procharged LT1 Camaro SS
With the following mods:
D1-SC stage 2 intercooler
6 psi boost
American Racing Headers 2 in primary no cats
Texas speed and performance stage 2 cam
Ported head
Trunion kit
93 octane
33% fuel lobe cam
160 degree thermostat
Stock fuel pump and injectors
Msd spark plug wires
Made 644whp/604 ft torque

Changed spark plug from lt4 to
Ngk 6510 gapped to .035 and im having a rough idle and code P0506
What do you recommend?

I’m also having an issue with this code “P0506” after my cam install, how did you fix this?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by MP3BOOSTED

I’m also having an issue with this code “P0506” after my cam install, how did you fix this?

In the tune.

[MP3BOOSTED]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

In the tune.

Any recommendations in what needs to be done? Taking my car back to my tuner on Monday and rather then try a few new things I’d like a fix lol.

I was set to idle at 900rpm, but it’s idling higher then that, not only does it do that but it’s creating a “false knock” to where when I’m normal driving the car hesitates. For example if I’m going above 2k rpm with my foot steady accelerating on the pedal it’s almost as if the rpm gets stuck and misfire which sends the car to hop and then continue on through higher RPMs. My tuner adjust the torque management tables a little more as it was dropping negative when doing that it seems to not be fixed as the check engine is back on 😭

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by MP3BOOSTED

Any recommendations in what needs to be done? Taking my car back to my tuner on Monday and rather then try a few new things I’d like a fix lol.

I was set to idle at 900rpm, but it’s idling higher then that, not only does it do that but it’s creating a “false knock” to where when I’m normal driving the car hesitates. For example if I’m going above 2k rpm with my foot steady accelerating on the pedal it’s almost as if the rpm gets stuck and misfire which sends the car to hop and then continue on through higher RPMs. My tuner adjust the torque management tables a little more as it was dropping negative when doing that it seems to not be fixed as the check engine is back on 😭

I can take over the tuning any time you like.

Ted.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by MP3BOOSTED

Oh I would 100% like that, but my ECU is locked 😡,

In my opinion if a tuner locks the computer they have something to hide and is total bull, it is your computer you own it not him, have him unlock it or better yet return the computer to stock.

I would rather start with the factory tune anyway, I don't care to see anyone else tuning.

Ted.

[51FIFFT]

Ted,
What is the max of the heartbeat? Should one go heartbeat or D1X? M6 car roll racing and 1/4 mile fun runs and still daily? I'm going to start out from a bone stock car and over time we all want more so I want room to grow with the blower not maxing out.
Thanks for your input.