[Hyperlinkblue]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

Test fit today.

Well it's no easy just bolt on and not for the faint of heart in regards to actually cutting and bending some rear fire wall metal.

Please ---- no I can believe u did that or you wrecked the back wall or warranty stuff or even its structural damaged.

It was jig saw cut, tin snips, hammer and bend. I will get some new weather stripping.

So the hood closed fine with test fit. I need to do the plumbing tomorrow and figure out a few things. I will have to get someone to help me extend the wiring stuff, I don't like electrical and never have soldder stuff. I might explore crimp on stuff. Fuel rails should not be a problem but I will have to figure out the throttle body control. It does not line up or match up. I may have to get a professional gear head to come and look at it.

Im a professional mechanic for a living, what ever you do, dont use crimp on butt connectors or anything. id sodder everything and use adhesive lined heat shrink tubeing. If you use crimp on but connectors use ones that have the adhesive lined shrink wrap on em then after you crimp you just shrink em. But i dont recommend it. You willll have problems later on down the road if the wireing harness is not propery sealed back up. Take your time and do it right. For supplies id just order it all online because the stuff im recommending is not easy to find.

[glenB]

Originally Posted by Hyperlinkblue

Im a professional mechanic for a living, what ever you do, dont use crimp on butt connectors or anything. id sodder everything and use adhesive lined heat shrink tubeing. If you use crimp on but connectors use ones that have the adhesive lined shrink wrap on em then after you crimp you just shrink em. But i dont recommend it. You willll have problems later on down the road if the wireing harness is not propery sealed back up. Take your time and do it right. For supplies id just order it all online because the stuff im recommending is not easy to find.

You need to rethink your soldering. Even GM recommends crimps Vs soldering.

Soldering can lead to embrittlement which weakens the wire and increases resistance.

[Chevy71]

Deutch connectors all the way. It's sealed, it doesn't create resistance and you plug in to your unchanged factory connections. That's what we use at Cat and what I use on all my electrical automotive work.

[Mr. Rager]

Amp connectors will blend in better with the GM wiring than the DT stuff. Uses the same pins and sockets. It's a little cheaper too. The crimpers are about $300 for the real deal although you can buy crappy ones from amazon.

Cheaper would be to tool up and use delphi 150 gt or something like that.

[SSDan]

Just use wire nuts and black tape like the rest of us.

Seriously, good luck. It certainly has an awesome look under the hood now.

[Hyperlinkblue]

Originally Posted by Chevy71

Deutch connectors all the way. It's sealed, it doesn't create resistance and you plug in to your unchanged factory connections. That's what we use at Cat and what I use on all my electrical automotive work.

If you can get your hands on deutch connectors I'd go this route vs what I said previously. This is also what we use at work but will probably cost more.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Ended up crimp and shrink wraps and electrical tape wrap.

Extended my map sensor wires and solenoid purge so they could be connected to manifold.

[Chevy71]

Originally Posted by Mr. Rager

Amp connectors will blend in better with the GM wiring than the DT stuff. Uses the same pins and sockets. It's a little cheaper too. The crimpers are about $300 for the real deal although you can buy crappy ones from amazon.

Cheaper would be to tool up and use delphi 150 gt or something like that.

Amp connectors are DT. It's just a series they offer. I can get you guys good deals on all the tooling, connectors, both gold and nickel plated pins, along with seals and jumpers pre made by Deutch if you really want it.

[USAFS197]

Originally Posted by 2SS 1LE

To get over 500whp na don't you need at least long tubes, cat back, heads, cam, im, TB, and a intake? Or am I underestimating this motor?

Negative. Most full bolt on builds are high 400's--PRAY for instance, hit I believe 498 or 499whp with his bolt on A8. Recently a H/C/I 6th gen made 557whp with a relatively mild cam. Back in the LS3 days, you'd need all those mods to break 500 reliably.

[Hyperlinkblue]

Originally Posted by 2SS 1LE

Doesn't pray have ported heads and a tune?

Wow!
Thanks for the correction! This bad boy responds to mods!

Totally separate suject:
Doesn't that mean if Chevy ends up doing a NA Z28 that they will be able to make 600hp no problem. Or is that a pipe dream?

at the crank or wheels?? At the crank yeah that would be easy especially if they made a updated ls7 with DI , and called it the lt7

[BlackbeastSS2]

Tunnel Ram is up and running today.

Definitely a different tone that sounds amazing. I will not say what I think I gained till dyno later this month. Does not feel like it lost anything, so that's good.

I ended up putting it all in by myself and got it done. Was in no rush and took my time and learned a lot. I ended up painting it gun metal, to match my darker over all theme. So, I might be the first tunnel ram on a 2016 SS that I am aware of. Different is what I want and I think I did that I n spades. I have a few future ideas to add to the motor at a later date.

I have started cleaning up lose ends, rear firewall, and need to get a front plumbing tube squared away. Work in progress.

[bybcous]

What tires are those? Nittos?

[BlackbeastSS2]

[QUOTE=bybcous;9726787]What tires are those? Nittos?[/QUOTE

Toyo R888

[Chevy71]

Looks great man! I'm curious to see how the numbers fall with a dyno.