Installing Headers soon

[JCunningham]

Originally Posted by angryv6

Can someone give me the torque specs for all of the bolts? I'll be doing my header install this weekend since every shop is either over priced or closed on the weekend.

from factory shop Manual. I have mine at 20ftlbs with no thread locker. never had them come loose.
3. Apply a 5 mm (0.2 in) wide band of threadlock GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488), or
equivalent, to the threads of the exhaust manifold bolts (602). Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants,
and Sealers .
4. Install the exhaust manifold (600), NEW gasket (601), and bolts.
1. Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts a first pass to 15 N.m (11 lb ft). Tighten the exhaust manifold
bolts beginning with the center 2 bolts. Alternate from side-to-side, and work toward the outside
bolts.
2. Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts a final pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft). Tighten the exhaust manifold
bolts beginning with the center 2 bolts. Alternate from side-to-side, and work toward the outside
bolts.
5. Using a flat punch, bend over the exposed edge of the exhaust manifold gasket at the rear of the left
cylinder head.

[angryv6]

Thanks J.

[JCunningham]

tighten them to 20ftlbs thow. the manifolds are cast and headers are SS so maybe it makes a difference. iv put 3 sets 2 on trucks 1 on my car all LS motors @ 20 and none needed to be retorqued

[angryv6]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

tighten them to 20ftlbs thow. the manifolds are cast and headers are SS so maybe it makes a difference. iv put 3 sets 2 on trucks 1 on my car all LS motors @ 20 and none needed to be retorqued

Will do and for the flanges? Any torque specifications on them?

[JCunningham]

35ftlbs

[JCunningham]

Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Manifold Nut 48 N.m 35 lb ft
Exhaust Muffler Clamp 48 N.m 35 lb ft
Exhaust Muffler (H Pipe) Clamps 48 N.m 35 lb ft
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Bolt 10 N.m 89 lb in
Underbody Brace 58 N.m 43 lb ft
http://www.anxa.de/camaro2010/index....atthandbuch%2F

[angryv6]

Thanks again J. Seems the only things I have to worry about are the sensors leaks after install.

[JCunningham]

o2 are 31ftlbs

[MattSS]

I did mine in my friend's garage with his help about a month ago. I've got a 2010 with 30k Illinois DD miles on it, so underneath was not exactly pretty. We had 16in jack stands in the front and didn't bother with the back.

1. Make sure you disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the spark plugs so you don't damage them. They stick out just enough that the old manifold can easily drop onto them after you undo it.
3. You may have to use your imagination to get a wrench in around some of the other wiring/tubing in the engine bay.
4. They aren't kidding about spraying every bolt on the exhaust with PB Blaster several hours beforehand and then again right before you crack them loose.
5. Driver side manifold was difficult to remove without messing with the steering column, but we managed it after probably 45 minutes of fiddling and some blunt adjustment to the heat shield.
6. I don't know if it was just the quality of the O2 sensor socket i bought, but even with heating the bung my socket just kept slipping off. I ended up using channel locks, heat and leverage.
7. Beware the bolts on the clamp between the cats and exhaust... mine were really badly rusted and one of the bolts sheared off when we tried to break it loose. Got lucky and found a replacement clamp in the next town over.
8. Unclipping the O2 sensor wires was a serious PITA. We ended up just cutting the plastic locking 'pin' and doing without.
9. The instructions that came with my Kooks said 28ft-lbs for the header bolts. Not sure why, but I'm guessing they revised the number at some point.
10. The headers will smoke the first couple times you crank it. Don't be alarmed, they're just burning off oil/coating from the manufacturing process. It's normal.

[fastjohnny]

That's weird, I just installed kooks headers and it said to torq to factory spec's

[fastjohnny]

The higher you can get the driver side the easier you can get the stock exhaust out, because you tip them straight up which makes them longer, what I did was jack the car with my floor jack then put jack stand under it and then took 3 2x10 and stacked them then used a bottle jack to get the car about 2' high and it came out like butter, its the steering knuckle that you have to get around, the passenger side is a lot easier. The spark plugs I didn't take out, but I did know there could be a risk of damaging the intended, but I didn't and was very aware of making sure not to hit them can you taking out the old exhaust and putting the headers in. good luck with the install!

[angryv6]

Thanks to all who replied and to the Op, sorry for jacking your thread. One last question. Where the hell is the bracket for the rear sensors? I can clearly see the front but can't pinpoint the rears.

[Jester06]

Lol it's cool, I'm still waiting on my headers, but at the same time I'm reading all the helpful tips


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[fastjohnny]

It's on the back of the engine on the heads on both sides