[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by FlukeSS

It is aluminum but I felt the tube after a run, and it was barely warm.

Also the CAI I have isn't the best as I'm learning. There's a lot of engine heat that can get into my intake. Rotofab would be a significant upgrade for that, but I wasn't sure if rotofab was completely enclosed. Which is why I'm considering Cold Air Inductions.

The Rotofab made for an NA 6th gen SS like this one (which I have used) https://www.roto-fab.com/cold-air-in...nd-tube-delete will be sealed when you drive the car. Closing the hood seals it on the rubber gasket. Then it draws air from behind the headlight instead of inside the engine compartment. That is a big reason that it has lower IATs than what I saw in your logs for the K&N 'CAI'.

As I'd mentioned before, changing your 'CAI' would then need a re-tune of your MAF frequency table.

[FlukeSS]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

The Rotofab made for an NA 6th gen SS like this one (which I have used) https://www.roto-fab.com/cold-air-in...nd-tube-delete will be sealed when you drive the car. Closing the hood seals it on the rubber gasket. Then it draws air from behind the headlight instead of inside the engine compartment. That is a big reason that it has lower IATs than what I saw in your logs for the K&N 'CAI'.

As I'd mentioned before, changing your 'CAI' would then need a re-tune of your MAF frequency table.

Any reason to consider oil vs dry filter? Or does it really matter?

[laynlo15]

I've had at least 1/2 dozen or more Roto-Fab intakes on multiple vehicles, and I've always run the dry filter. It will make all the HP your engine will provide. You never have to worry about over oiling your filter when it's time and oil getting on the MAF. Maybe if you live in a really dusty area or on a gravel road you might consider an oiled Roto-Fab. My 16ss made 850 plus Rwhp and my 22 Lt1 made 707 with a dry filter. Those are my proven numbers.