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Old 10-19-2011, 10:36 AM   #29
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I would like to have the part # for all of the rings, 1-4. PM or post here, please.

Thanks for sharing with us. This will surely remove a lot of the headaches the M6 contingent has been dealing with.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:05 PM   #30
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Oxtar41 the parts are inexpensive but how much does labor come to?
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:15 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
That's not good. I was hoping they addressed 3rd gear also.
Not bothering me. When it's up to temp it is better. It's kind of the nature of the beast with the 6060. Even the Vette guys have the same nibble going 2-3.

Some say a different fluid helps. Perhaps when I get time I will swap it out with some Redline D4.

-Funk
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:06 PM   #32
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Part numbers for the blocking rings are as follows....

1st gear - 19256241 (List $114.53)
2nd gear - 19256242 (List $161.44)
3rd & 4th gear - 19178691 (List $119.71)
5th,6th & REV gear - 19180031 (List $109.91)
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:57 PM   #33
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19256242 is the updated number. Same ones I got, been extremely busy lately and haven't had time to post sorry for the wait guys. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-30-2011, 12:31 PM   #34
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Any further updates on this? How's it been running?
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Old 10-30-2011, 02:06 PM   #35
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I made a new post telling how its been running. It has been great shifts like butter I put some redline fluid in it and the tick performance steel braided clutch line and I have to say I'm very impressed. Even in 30 degree morning temps I have zero notchyness.
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Old 10-30-2011, 02:28 PM   #36
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Sweet deal. Thanks a bunch.

Now it's just how to convince my guys to change them out w/out blowing up my tranny.
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:18 AM   #37
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I'm a little late to this thread but wanted to make an addition. I have a 2012 SS M6 and have had the notciness from day one. The car had the stock shifter from new and I had the dealer install the Hurst short throw. With the talk of the 2012's having upgraded blockers I have my doubts. I am having the 1st to 2nd grind anytime I try to shift rapidly, irregardless if the trans is warm or not. I just turned 1000 miles today and have never tried a high rpm shift yet, but doubt it would work.
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:55 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by patternpilot View Post
I'm a little late to this thread but wanted to make an addition. I have a 2012 SS M6 and have had the notciness from day one. The car had the stock shifter from new and I had the dealer install the Hurst short throw. With the talk of the 2012's having upgraded blockers I have my doubts. I am having the 1st to 2nd grind anytime I try to shift rapidly, irregardless if the trans is warm or not. I just turned 1000 miles today and have never tried a high rpm shift yet, but doubt it would work.
I don't want to sound rude...please don't take it that way. Have you had anyone else drive your car? Different people shift differently, and I'm just curious.

I'm also curious since you're in WA...how cold is it? It was 30 this morning when I got in my car, but it still seems to shift fine...just a stock original 2010 TR6060 with 36K miles on it.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:17 AM   #39
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With all due respect...it has nothing to do with cold.

I've had mine for two years, 26k miles and it does the same. Try to shift quickly and GRRRRRRRIND

I've been driving stick since 2000....11 years, daily. I know how to drive.

On quick shifts, usually between 1st and 2nd, I get that horrible grind too.

I still need to call my dealer...haven't had the time.
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:17 PM   #40
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With even more respect, mine only does it when it's cold and I have read several others posts that say the same thing. After my car is warm I can't get a grind no matter what rpm I shift at.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:42 PM   #41
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With all due respect...it has nothing to do with cold.

I've had mine for two years, 26k miles and it does the same. Try to shift quickly and GRRRRRRRIND

I've been driving stick since 2000....11 years, daily. I know how to drive.

On quick shifts, usually between 1st and 2nd, I get that horrible grind too.

I still need to call my dealer...haven't had the time.
This is what I was trying to avoid...I hope I didn't insult you, and I hope this post doesn't either.

I have driven a LOT of manual transmission vehicles...and so have a LOT of people I know.

I've handed people the keys to my Camaro, knowing they've driven stick shift cars for YEARS and hundreds of thousands of miles...even friends fathers who are guys in their mid-late 50's...and by some of them...I've been absolutely horrified with what they were doing to my clutch...some people drive stick for years and never even learn how to rev match their downshifts...instead they just demolish the clutch...I'm not saying that's you...and it's probably not the cause of the issue.

Have you tried to very methodically make SURE you have the clutch pedal on the floor before you move the shifter? I know that you know to do it...but when I pay attention to my right hand and left foot, I realize that I'm moving the shifter around before I have the pedal down all the way...I'm guilty of it, you may not realize if you are too.

I guess I'm one of the lucky ones with a 2010 SS that doesn't grind? If it matters, mine was built on January 29, 2010...I think most of the problems I've heard of were earlier build cars.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:49 PM   #42
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This is what I was trying to avoid...I hope I didn't insult you, and I hope this post doesn't either.

I have driven a LOT of manual transmission vehicles...and so have a LOT of people I know.

I've handed people the keys to my Camaro, knowing they've driven stick shift cars for YEARS and hundreds of thousands of miles...even friends fathers who are guys in their mid-late 50's...and by some of them...I've been absolutely horrified with what they were doing to my clutch...some people drive stick for years and never even learn how to rev match their downshifts...instead they just demolish the clutch...I'm not saying that's you...and it's probably not the cause of the issue.

Have you tried to very methodically make SURE you have the clutch pedal on the floor before you move the shifter? I know that you know to do it...but when I pay attention to my right hand and left foot, I realize that I'm moving the shifter around before I have the pedal down all the way...I'm guilty of it, you may not realize if you are too.

I guess I'm one of the lucky ones with a 2010 SS that doesn't grind? If it matters, mine was built on January 29, 2010...I think most of the problems I've heard of were earlier build cars.
Nooooo....no insults what-so-ever!

Just friendly conversation. All good here.

I know what you mean about handing the keys off to someone else who's driven stick and they suddenly grind...stall, etc. Clutches are different.

Yes. I have probably been guilty of shifting before the clutch was fully depressed. However, I can say that for a fact, I've gotten the grind with the pedal all the way down. I'm moving...clutch all the way in, quick shift and grrrrrr..... I stop what I'm doing and quickly review. Did I have the clutch all the way in? Yep. I've asked myself the same question several times. "Could the problem had simply been me?" On several occasions, sure. On quite a few others, not a chance.

I wish I could get it on video. I want one camera on the pedal, one on the tach, and one on the shifter. I can floor it.....get my rpm's up there....and then I'll fully depress the clutch going for a quick shift. Yep. It happens.

Mine was built 03-31-09. Early build. But, what I really want is to try those new carbon synchros. If it fixes the problem, then I'm 100% happy.
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