[bybcous]

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=427474
Read this alfonso

[GMGP5X]

Found this over on the ATSV forums, just thought it was relevant to those of you getting your cars soon that have been sitting at the same plant. [I have about 2000 miles on my ATS-V which sat for two months in Michigan before it was shipped.
At 1096 miles, I did the first oil change and also took a sample of the factory fill drain oil and sent it to a lab for analysis.

The report came back with a couple of warning issues:
1) The drain oil had 3.07% gasoline content an very high number for oil which was run only 1000 miles.
2) The viscosity of the oil had deteriorated to SAE20.
3) The silicon content of the oil was fairly high]

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by GMGP5X

Found this over on the ATSV forums, just thought it was relevant to those of you getting your cars soon that have been sitting at the same plant. [I have about 2000 miles on my ATS-V which sat for two months in Michigan before it was shipped.
At 1096 miles, I did the first oil change and also took a sample of the factory fill drain oil and sent it to a lab for analysis.

The report came back with a couple of warning issues:
1) The drain oil had 3.07% gasoline content an very high number for oil which was run only 1000 miles.
2) The viscosity of the oil had deteriorated to SAE20.
3) The silicon content of the oil was fairly high]

Any other ATS-V owners sent theirs in to compare?

[chuckclanton]

Originally Posted by Jakey2SS

I have a 350 mile drive home from the dealer, will probably change the oil within a few days after that and then let her rip

I like the let her rip part! The modern cylinder honing process really does not require the "babying" recommended! However, like the dealers do on the 2016 Z06, I am going to have the factory oil removed an replaced with
30 wt brake-in oil. After a few hundred miles of "how you would normally
use the car" replace the brake-in oil with regular 10w/30W. After another 5000 miles go to Mobil 1. Worked just fine on 2009 Corvette and 2014 Camaro SS. Synthetic oil slows the ring seating process. Too slippery!

[Indydriver]

The key is accel/decel (no cruising at constant rpm). 4000 rpm gives you plenty of room to play so go ahead and make the factory engineers happy for 1500 miles. You will seat rings and other components just fine if you are on-the-gas/off-the-gas constantly.

Use the four dealer included oil changes to clean out break-in contaminants. I got mine changed at 1000/3000/6000/9000 and now will DIY with M1 according to the OLM. If you have any doubts, send in a couple of consecutive samples for lab analysis and prove to yourself how much life is left in the oil.

[neal_zack]

I like your recommended process sledgehammer70. What kind of oil will ever one be running? Im running Scheaffer's full sythetic 5w30 it's dexos compatible like the LT1 calls for. Schaffer"s has been around for a long time and I run the there 5W40 in my Power Stroke its really tough oil it wont break down I do the blackstone test every so often and it never breaks down and the 6.0L powerstoke is famous for shearing oil

[Glen e]

I'll do the owners manual way, if i do really anything at all. Its been over 4k a few times, and a few crash stops. Its a DD, I'll sell before it has 30k on it, so im not worshipping this car or getting OCD about it.

Ill change to M1 Ext Perf at 1200, then every 9 months, as i always hit time, before i hit mileage. At 1200 ill install my fumoto valve, makes changes spotless in my condo garage where we're not allowed to work on cars. (but they'll never see the valve in action).

White nipple and tube snaps off, nothing hangs lower than the stock bolt. Used these on my last 5 cars.

[63falcondude]

I was reading the controversial "break in an engine hard" article by motoman and it seems very logical to me. Naturally I am skeptical but it sure got me thinking.

Here is the link: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[neal_zack]

my mind is blown and i have no idea what to do now!

[pkssauce]

Originally Posted by neal_zack

my mind is blow and i have no idea what to do now!

It is rather confusing.

[neal_zack]

Originally Posted by 63falcondude

I was reading the controversial "break in an engine hard" article by motoman and it seems very logical to me. Naturally I am skeptical but it sure got me thinking.

Here is the link: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It seems very logical to me but changing the oil at 20 miles come on man. what do you guys think about changing to convetional oil to break in the engine?

[63falcondude]

Originally Posted by neal_zack

It seems very logical to me but changing the oil at 20 miles come on man. what do you guys think about changing to convetional oil to break in the engine?

I think 600 or so is safe but 20 certainly wouldn't hurt. (Playing devil's advocate here) It might be excessive but the first few miles is when most of the break-in is taking place, so I would assume that is when the majority of the metal particles are loose in the oil. I think that conventional is best to break in an engine (from what I have read) because it is not as slippery as synthetic. That being said, I don't think that it is the end of the world if you break in with synthetic (also from what I have read).

[SuperSound]

Do not switch a engine built with synthetic to conventional under any circumstances. The tolerances are not designed for Dino oil.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[63falcondude]

Originally Posted by SuperSound

Do not switch a engine built with synthetic to conventional under any circumstances. The tolerances are not designed for Dino oil.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

I could be mistaken here but I don't believe that there are any engines built only for use with synthetics. If you have any source that says otherwise please share it. Keep in mind that I am no auto mechanic (by trade).