Post BMR sway bar - loud creak in the rear suspension - Page 2

WhiteMale · 07-13-2023, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by h018871

When in the softest position, the end hole, the end links will make contact with the knuckles. You can’t see it with the tires off and the suspension at full droop. This could put things in a bind. Something to look at if you’re running the softest setting.

Its the BMR non-adjustable bar.

WhiteMale · 07-13-2023, 07:27 AM

So I solved this by placing two washers as spacers/shims under the lower frame mount bolt and it was immediately 98% quieter. And the rear suspension loosened up. When I bounced the car with the trunk open I had more movement from the bar not being so tight.
I need to look at the adjustable end links and the lengths as I had to make them a tad bit longer because the bar wouldn't move to meet the rod end when I initially set them to match the OE end links.
I appreciate the tip on the interference with the knuckle I'll be looking at that when I'm under there.

carguy55 · 07-13-2023, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by h018871

When in the softest position, the end hole, the end links will make contact with the knuckles. You can’t see it with the tires off and the suspension at full droop. This could put things in a bind. Something to look at if you’re running the softest setting.

My BMR rear endlinks are offset and clear the knuckle when installed correctly

WhiteMale · 07-17-2023, 06:55 AM

I reset the end links to OE length and installed the R side at full droop. Set the L side to OE length but left it unattached at to the bar. Reset wheels and dropped the car, drove it around the block and came back and put it up on ramps so that the suspension was loaded.
The L link at the SHORTEST was too long to reach the bar about a 1/2". I was trying to get it "neutral" on the L side. I had to jack the car, on the ramps, about an inch to be able to get the link bolted up.

I revisited my washer shims and found only one was necessary to free up the bar and it would now rotate in the bushings with little effort.

Still not prefectly quiet on that R side bushing, I may have to get back in and grease it again. Trying some WD-40 to verify.

Keeping this going so others can try and learn from my mistakes.

*radz28* · 07-20-2023, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

So I solved this by placing two washers as spacers/shims under the lower frame mount bolt and it was immediately 98% quieter. And the rear suspension loosened up. When I bounced the car with the trunk open I had more movement from the bar not being so tight.
I need to look at the adjustable end links and the lengths as I had to make them a tad bit longer because the bar wouldn't move to meet the rod end when I initially set them to match the OE end links.
I appreciate the tip on the interference with the knuckle I'll be looking at that when I'm under there.

I get a little noise, sometimes, too. I have a different bar, but are you talking about the sway bar bracket mounting holes on the bottom? Are those what you shimmed (well - the passenger's side)? Am I understanding, correctly, that your bar was actually binding, until you shimmed?

Just curious, and Thank You.

WhiteMale · 07-21-2023, 06:40 AM

Yes where you circled is where I placed one washer, maybe a 1/16th in thickness, a washer was the easiest thing to use as a shim. Until I shimmed it the bushing and bracket were so tight that you couldn't move the bar by hand, I don't think I was even able to force it, it was so locked in position. That caused the squeak and also forced me to set the links LONG because of where the bar was. The rear of the car was super stiff, too, I could hardly bounce the rear with the trunk open.

The shim freed it up and I was able to get my links back to OE length.

Everything has been 99% quiet every day this week.

*radz28* · 07-21-2023, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

Yes where you circled is where I placed one washer, maybe a 1/16th in thickness, a washer was the easiest thing to use as a shim. Until I shimmed it the bushing and bracket were so tight that you couldn't move the bar by hand, I don't think I was even able to force it, it was so locked in position. That caused the squeak and also forced me to set the links LONG because of where the bar was. The rear of the car was super stiff, too, I could hardly bounce the rear with the trunk open.

The shim freed it up and I was able to get my links back to OE length.

Everything has been 99% quiet every day this week.

Interesting... Thank you very much for clarifying.

Blacked_Out_Maro · 07-24-2023, 05:36 PM

I had the same noise, it was driving me crazy. Read multiple threads doing research to try and find the issue. Bought rubber boots and synthetic grease for the heim joints. Didn't fix it. Then loosened all the hardware with the car sitting on the tires with load on the suspension still had the noise. Then cam across this thread and tried the washer trick, that helped loosen the swaybar but still had a squeak. So as a last resort I removed the BMR end links and reinstalled the factory and also sprayed WD-40 on the lower control arm where the spring sits. Finally I have no squeak anymore.

Just my experience.

WhiteMale · 07-25-2023, 08:15 AM

I was about to put the OE end links back in when I found a discussion about shimming the frame mounts and how much the bar should be able to move. So far so good, everything is about 99% I think I can still hear some sort of noise back there but Im done looking, I think.

Blacked_Out_Maro · 07-25-2023, 09:14 AM

If anyone is interested in the boot for the heim joints here are the part numbers for the items I used. Be sure to get the spreader tool or you will be hating life.

Also forgot that I found the upper trailing arm was rubbing the spindle pretty bad.

Rubber boots - SIT-RERS36PK
Synthetic grease - UPI-3008
Spreader tool - SIT-RERS-TOOL

Davescamaro · 08-01-2023, 06:45 AM

I too am getting unwanted creak sounds. I have all BMR links and upper control arms along with adjustable end links. Had 2 mechanics look at it and said everything is tight and to spec. Put endlink to ZL1 sway bar. I may go with putting the oem endlink back on from reading all of these posts. Before the sway bar and enlinks, did not make any noise so I'm going with them.

WhiteMale · 08-01-2023, 08:03 AM

I was almost certain it was the rod end link, my first experience with that type. I lubed and considered the boots, I was at a loss. I pull them off the car, and to my bench where I was able to manipulate the rod end in its range of motion and it was silent. I noted to BMR states that their rod ends are teflon.

Davescamaro · 08-16-2023, 03:14 PM

Well found out, mines not BMR related. It's my rear shocks going from all the links I put on it to stress it even more. Thinking about the Bilstein B6 shocks with afe power springs. Anyone have Bilstein?

Msquared · 08-17-2023, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davescamaro

Well found out, mines not BMR related. It's my rear shocks going from all the links I put on it to stress it even more. Thinking about the Bilstein B6 shocks with afe power springs. Anyone have Bilstein?

That doesn't make sense. How could any suspension links add stress to a rear shock on our cars?

08-01-2023, 06:45 AM	#25
Davescamaro Drives: Chevy camaro Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: North Carolina Posts: 198	I too am getting unwanted creak sounds. I have all BMR links and upper control arms along with adjustable end links. Had 2 mechanics look at it and said everything is tight and to spec. Put endlink to ZL1 sway bar. I may go with putting the oem endlink back on from reading all of these posts. Before the sway bar and enlinks, did not make any noise so I'm going with them. __________________ 2019 Camaro 1 LT 2.0 Riverside Blue Metallic, ZZP strut bar, K&N intake, ZZP catted DP, MRT axle back, Injen IC piping, Trifecta Elite tune, zzp heat shield, turbosmart diverter valve. Knockoff zl1 sideskirts, gm front chin spoiler, 1le blade spoiler, diode sides, 20" staggered Asanti black labels, azenis 510 245/40/20 fronts, nitto 555 g2s 275/35/20 rears.

08-16-2023, 03:14 PM	#27
Davescamaro Drives: Chevy camaro Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: North Carolina Posts: 198	Well found out, mines not BMR related. It's my rear shocks going from all the links I put on it to stress it even more. Thinking about the Bilstein B6 shocks with afe power springs. Anyone have Bilstein? __________________ 2019 Camaro 1 LT 2.0 Riverside Blue Metallic, ZZP strut bar, K&N intake, ZZP catted DP, MRT axle back, Injen IC piping, Trifecta Elite tune, zzp heat shield, turbosmart diverter valve. Knockoff zl1 sideskirts, gm front chin spoiler, 1le blade spoiler, diode sides, 20" staggered Asanti black labels, azenis 510 245/40/20 fronts, nitto 555 g2s 275/35/20 rears.

07-13-2023, 07:27 AM	#16
WhiteMale Drives: 23 ZL1 A10 Rapid Blue Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: MO Posts: 2,013	So I solved this by placing two washers as spacers/shims under the lower frame mount bolt and it was immediately 98% quieter. And the rear suspension loosened up. When I bounced the car with the trunk open I had more movement from the bar not being so tight. I need to look at the adjustable end links and the lengths as I had to make them a tad bit longer because the bar wouldn't move to meet the rod end when I initially set them to match the OE end links. I appreciate the tip on the interference with the knuckle I'll be looking at that when I'm under there.

07-17-2023, 06:55 AM	#18
WhiteMale Drives: 23 ZL1 A10 Rapid Blue Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: MO Posts: 2,013	I reset the end links to OE length and installed the R side at full droop. Set the L side to OE length but left it unattached at to the bar. Reset wheels and dropped the car, drove it around the block and came back and put it up on ramps so that the suspension was loaded. The L link at the SHORTEST was too long to reach the bar about a 1/2". I was trying to get it "neutral" on the L side. I had to jack the car, on the ramps, about an inch to be able to get the link bolted up. I revisited my washer shims and found only one was necessary to free up the bar and it would now rotate in the bushings with little effort. Still not prefectly quiet on that R side bushing, I may have to get back in and grease it again. Trying some WD-40 to verify. Keeping this going so others can try and learn from my mistakes.

07-21-2023, 06:40 AM	#20
WhiteMale Drives: 23 ZL1 A10 Rapid Blue Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: MO Posts: 2,013	Yes where you circled is where I placed one washer, maybe a 1/16th in thickness, a washer was the easiest thing to use as a shim. Until I shimmed it the bushing and bracket were so tight that you couldn't move the bar by hand, I don't think I was even able to force it, it was so locked in position. That caused the squeak and also forced me to set the links LONG because of where the bar was. The rear of the car was super stiff, too, I could hardly bounce the rear with the trunk open. The shim freed it up and I was able to get my links back to OE length. Everything has been 99% quiet every day this week.

07-24-2023, 05:36 PM	#22
Blacked_Out_Maro Riding with a cougar... Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Jacksonville, Florida Posts: 2	I had the same noise, it was driving me crazy. Read multiple threads doing research to try and find the issue. Bought rubber boots and synthetic grease for the heim joints. Didn't fix it. Then loosened all the hardware with the car sitting on the tires with load on the suspension still had the noise. Then cam across this thread and tried the washer trick, that helped loosen the swaybar but still had a squeak. So as a last resort I removed the BMR end links and reinstalled the factory and also sprayed WD-40 on the lower control arm where the spring sits. Finally I have no squeak anymore. Just my experience.

07-25-2023, 08:15 AM	#23
WhiteMale Drives: 23 ZL1 A10 Rapid Blue Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: MO Posts: 2,013	I was about to put the OE end links back in when I found a discussion about shimming the frame mounts and how much the bar should be able to move. So far so good, everything is about 99% I think I can still hear some sort of noise back there but Im done looking, I think.

07-25-2023, 09:14 AM	#24
Blacked_Out_Maro Riding with a cougar... Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Jacksonville, Florida Posts: 2	If anyone is interested in the boot for the heim joints here are the part numbers for the items I used. Be sure to get the spreader tool or you will be hating life. Also forgot that I found the upper trailing arm was rubbing the spindle pretty bad. Rubber boots - SIT-RERS36PK Synthetic grease - UPI-3008 Spreader tool - SIT-RERS-TOOL

08-01-2023, 08:03 AM	#26
WhiteMale Drives: 23 ZL1 A10 Rapid Blue Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: MO Posts: 2,013	I was almost certain it was the rod end link, my first experience with that type. I lubed and considered the boots, I was at a loss. I pull them off the car, and to my bench where I was able to manipulate the rod end in its range of motion and it was silent. I noted to BMR states that their rod ends are teflon.

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