02-21-2024, 08:28 PM | #15 | |
Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: US
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Quote:
I am thinking my only hope here is going to be welding a nut or something to the screw, and ill just have to get a new retainer plate since I know its going to melt the seal behind it. I should have known to prepare for this issue since I hear about it so much. I mean it was Harbor Freight, but im sure the same supplier makes all of them anyway. I have some good cobalt bits I guess I could try to drill it out but I don't want to risk messing up the threads and not sure if it would even help me to drill it out any. |
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02-21-2024, 08:40 PM | #16 |
Drives: 22 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: WA
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Heat man, heat. Thats the only thing that will work on red loctite if you did in fact use it. Even if it's not red loctite in there heat will be your friend.
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22 SS 1LE M6 - MSD intake, NW103 throttle body, Roto-Fab, HP tuned by me.
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02-21-2024, 08:53 PM | #17 |
Drives: 17 hyper blue 2SS M6 Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: NorCal
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This is what I was referring to. This is what I used.
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02-21-2024, 10:07 PM | #18 |
Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
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So I finally got them off. At first I was welding nuts and they kept breaking off. I didn't want to hold it down on full voltage and wire speed. But the key was finding a nut with the same OD as the torx screw. This allows the ID of the nut to be big enough to get the gun in there and get the weld pool in the center of the torx screw instead of it hitting the edge of the nut. You also need to preweld in the recessed torx holes and fill them in so when you put the nut over it you have a good clean weld pool to get everything bonded together tight.
So after I got a good sized nut, I just put a small weld I didn't even fill in the nut ID more than about 1/3 with filler and let it cool just until the visible red goes away and it torques right off. |
02-21-2024, 10:10 PM | #19 | |
Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
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Quote:
Not sure why I didn't have this issue before. Now I can see why people talk about this all the time. |
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02-21-2024, 11:13 PM | #20 |
Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
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So I think they say never look at your cam bearings, this was the #4 intake which was the same lobe that got hit the hardest on the cam:
The rest of the cam bearings look ok. |
02-21-2024, 11:15 PM | #21 |
Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
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You can see the lobes look ok across the base then once it start hitting the lobe ramp the wear starts happening:
You can see it better on this last picture the base circle part of the lobe is ok, then once it gets halfway through the wear and pitting starts: |
02-22-2024, 12:14 AM | #22 |
Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: US
Posts: 1,204
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Has anyone put new cam bearings in a GEN V LT1 before? I think I have heard there are some issues with clearance on the GEN V stuff as compared to the LS but not sure though.
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02-22-2024, 09:51 AM | #23 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Clinton Twp, Michigan
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Hate to see it.
Sounds like you did everything right. Possible bad heat treat on the camshaft? |
02-22-2024, 03:40 PM | #24 |
Drives: 2017 Camaro SS, 2011 Corvette GS Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Erlanger, Kentucky 41018
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02-22-2024, 04:23 PM | #25 | |
Drives: 2016 1SS NFG A8 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: 46804
Posts: 6,837
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Quote:
What was your actual lifter preload cold? I have been following 2110 lifter discussion for years going back over to LS1 tech and I swear the 2110 called for around .050 of preload cold. The 2110r called for around the same preload but has .045 less total travel. Even the Morel drop in 6504/5315 called for around .050 pre load cold. You sure you didn't have the wrong amount of lifter preload ?Excessive valvetrain noise would be a prime indicator of this. Everyone uses LS7 lifters because they are the most forgiving and have a wider sweet spot. .075-.100. so often times a pushrod that is close is good enough. Where with Johnson's you might need different length pushrods on the intake and exhaust... especially if the heads are ported and had a valve job done.
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02-22-2024, 07:06 PM | #26 |
Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: US
Posts: 1,204
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02-22-2024, 07:18 PM | #27 | |
Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
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Quote:
So I emailed Johnson and told them I was shooting for 0.035 and they didn't correct me so I guess this is correct preload maybe not though. So looking back on my notes you may be right, apparently I was shooting for around 0.050 because right now I am using a 7.750 pushrod, which gives me an average of 0.056, 7.725 would have been very close to nominal 0.035 Johnson recommendation though. I looked back on all my receipts and I think I tried pushrod lengths: 7.725, 7.750, and my original TSP 7.800. I sold all of them though and stuck with my 7.750s: I think I was trying to increase the preload to make it quieter, but got tired of changing back and forth and just settled with the 7.750s. But you may be right maybe I had some other knowledge somewhere that 0.050 worked better than 0.035, either way its been too long ago to remember. I am still looking for my preload measurements done just by the rocker arm screw finger tight method, then counting screw turns. I think preload measurement is very subjective from person to person and seems like it would also be very subjected to the state of the lifter height. In the case above all of the lifters would have had miles on them from the TSP cam and recently ran in the engine. I really think I have more measurements I did with screw turns somewhere I just have to find them, but I think both methods were consistent though Last edited by cmitchell17; 02-22-2024 at 07:40 PM. |
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02-22-2024, 07:49 PM | #28 |
Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
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I forgot to add I also had slight PTV but on #2 and #4, no other pistons showed any marks at all:
So #4 intake cam lobe had the worst wear by far, but not necessarily the #2 intake or exhaust lobe. I am about to pull the springs and valves and check for broken springs or bent valves, but doesn't seem related if the wear was on the #4 intake but the exhaust valves are what is making contact. |
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