02-26-2013, 08:54 PM | #1905 |
Drives: cts-v Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 506
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Nathan, thought of you the other day...
The carbon fiber guys were grinding down/modifying some IRL wings and pans in our prep booth so I was talking to them about doing a hood for my Cadillac... Talked about doing a hood with completely smooth underside (no visible structure, very thin with internal structure), then cross-laying the weave of our logo on the underside so it is kind of "ghosted" in. We would just need to change out the gas strut as the stock one would destroy a 7lb carbon hood lol. Now I just need to design what I would want the hood to look like and come up with a little over $10k!
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02-26-2013, 11:59 PM | #1906 | |
Drives: G5.R Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,377
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I'm so backed up on the update, I figure I'd post a few more. Unfortunately I didn't take any before pictures on the arms. Would had made it easier to appreciate all the work that went into them. Trust me they didn't look like this before. I polished the caps on all the arms including the tie rods on the PS rack (not shown in the pics). When the car will be on the lift I will be able to admire all 6 caps being detailed. Once I receive the Pfadt bushings I will replace these. I will also finish cleaning the arm. The perimeter gives you an idea of how rough the arms were. What the heck, you guys already think I'm crazy, why not polish the clip for the boot (look closely). I also polished the tips that will be coming through the spindle. I can't wait to call the front sub FINISHED!!!!! |
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02-27-2013, 02:56 AM | #1907 | |
Dances With Mustangs
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I keep thinking I've gotten used to this project but you keep coming up with random stuff that keeps amazing me. This car is going to be so stunning it will almost be a crime to drive it. It should be in a museum under spotlights with lights and a mirror underneath to show off all this incredible work. I've seen all kinds of builds, custom rods, show cars, restorations, etc. over the years but I don't think I've ever seen anything quite like what you're doing. Just amazing...great job Nathan! I can't wait to see what the final weight is going to be after you're all finished.
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Blue Angel is here!! 1SS/RS LS3 M6 IBM |
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02-27-2013, 11:17 AM | #1908 |
Drives: pleather and Chiclets Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: a line somwhere
Posts: 4,206
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yes now doc and blue angel posts here!! i was hoping to see the car in action at fontana this past weekend...maybe next time.
couldnt agree more, i have never seen a late model car with so much awesome...and there are a few in this one thread. it is definatly concentrated car porn.
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02-27-2013, 03:33 PM | #1909 | |
Dances With Mustangs
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Blue Angel is here!! 1SS/RS LS3 M6 IBM |
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02-27-2013, 06:15 PM | #1910 | ||
Drives: G5.R Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,377
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Thanks guys, I really appreciate the kind words! Doc, I did some research and there's a lot of track cars running a similar set up. Here is an example... But, since I hold your input in high regards, you got me rethinking the whole deal and I am changing the design. Actually it's going to look a hundred times better than what I had planned, so thanks! Quick update: Just got tracking numbers for another part that will drop 30+ lbs Here is a clue: L P L3400 |
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02-27-2013, 06:21 PM | #1911 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
Posts: 4,544
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Offset it from the fins so it doesn't touch anywhere. In a puller fan setup its a benefit as it makes the fans more efficient when they're on. That helps more at low speeds though. The existing plastic shroud should then be trimmed so the fans can suck air through the whole radiator with your new shroud making the system more efficient in that way.
With it offset I doubt you would see a restriction at high speeds or if there is one it would be minimal and the temps would be better at low speeds with fans operating through the improved shroud. Just my 2 cents. |
02-27-2013, 06:22 PM | #1912 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
Posts: 4,544
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02-27-2013, 07:56 PM | #1913 | |
Drives: cts-v Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 506
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02-27-2013, 08:23 PM | #1914 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS CGM Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oskaloosa, IA
Posts: 627
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Nathan wanted me to add my update to this thread since I hear a bunch of us noobs are filling his inbox . I have been watching this thread since the beginning and am finally getting enough courage to start some of this stuff.
One year ago I bought my car and started modding right of the bat. once I say Nate's build I wanted to do some similar stuff with mine and make it my own. I started real simple, removed the plastic cover. At a car show someone let me know there was a heater hose relocation kit and thus began this adventure. Engine 1.1 Then got a new intake and other various parts. Engine 2.0 Now for the real work. I took the manifold off, took the coils off for later, started putting my new fuel rails on. Over the weekend I am going to start cutting the harnesses apart and wraping them seperately. |
02-27-2013, 08:55 PM | #1915 | |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Black on Black Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Global Citizen
Posts: 1,243
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My thoughts are the shroud can create a venturi effect, accelerating the flow of air through the radiator, but provided the spacing between the back of the fins and the shroud is optimal. Too close and the air won't flow behind the fins well, too far away and it loses velocity. But what do I know? I'm a CPA, not an aeronautical engineer.
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Meh
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02-27-2013, 08:58 PM | #1916 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
Posts: 4,544
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Its not about venturi but causing the fans to force air through maximum surface area. Smaller shrouds mean the fans pull air through less fins thus minimizing what the fans can do in pulling air through the radiator.
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02-27-2013, 09:24 PM | #1917 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS CGM Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oskaloosa, IA
Posts: 627
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Now with that being said I have a few questions/clarifications. I was likeing the way you made your fuel rails and linked them so I was following a similar style. I am currently waiting on some fittings, but here are where I have questions on your set-up. Are the front of the rails capped as in some of the pics looked like they are and in others they are not.
Then on to the back, I have a 90 deg fitting from the driver's side going to a T-fitting connected to the other rail with a coupler and AN fitting. This is where the real clarification I need, what fitting goes to the stock connection, I have a AN fitting to a 3/8th spring female connection, I don't need a aftermarket regulator or anything do I? I have talked to a few people, but I would assume stock connection and stock injectors why do I need a regulator? Also, the cables are a daunting task any suggestions? I also saw that you soldered some lines, after reviewing the DIY I am still kinda confused, can you just buy extenders for the injector harness or what? Also this might be a dumb question, but is the only way to put heat shrink tube is to cut the wire, there is no way to pull over connectors??? Thanks |
02-28-2013, 09:26 PM | #1918 | |
Furious Shine
Drives: None Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 669
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