Clutch/Break fluid

[yellowrs]

So I bought a 16 oz OEM Break Fluid and a Turkey Baster to change some of my dirty clutch fluid.
It this in 4 steps , pumping the clutch 20-30 times before removing and adding more fluid.
The fluid was extremely dirty so should I repeat this process until the fluid comes out clean.
If so how much fluid will I need ?
Thanks

[06_warrior]

I would think the 16 oz is enough.

[tramtwo]

Originally Posted by yellowrs

So I bought a 16 oz OEM Break Fluid and a Turkey Baster to change some of my dirty clutch fluid.
It this in 4 steps , pumping the clutch 20-30 times before removing and adding more fluid.
The fluid was extremely dirty so should I repeat this process until the fluid comes out clean.
If so how much fluid will I need ?
Thanks

A bunch without bleeding the brakes. Have you considered the separate clutch reservoir mod?

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=19

tramtwo posted this on the go

[yellowrs]

Originally Posted by tramtwo

A bunch without bleeding the brakes. Have you considered the separate clutch reservoir mod?

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=19

tramtwo posted this on the go

Yes I have looked into that. My biggest concern right now getting it all clean.

[jd10013]

your car is 3 yrs old, you haven't flushed your brake fluid yet?

[yellowrs]

Originally Posted by jd10013

your car is 3 yrs old, you haven't flushed your brake fluid yet?

It only got 11k miles on it.

[tramtwo]

Originally Posted by yellowrs

Yes I have looked into that. My biggest concern right now getting it all clean.

Then you will need to bleed the brakes. Cycle clean fluid through the clutch and repeat. Problem is that the clutch dust will quickly dirty the fluid again.

tramtwo posted this on the go

[jd10013]

Originally Posted by yellowrs

It only got 11k miles on it.

12-15 is typically when you change it, or when it's dirty. and that's for brake fluid. being used as clutch fluid most likely shortens that. with 11k miles, three years, and as dirty as it is your probably better off having it flushed.

[yellowrs]

I guess I will talk to my mechanic Monday.

[heymatt]

Originally Posted by tramtwo

Problem is that the clutch dust will quickly dirty the fluid again.

tramtwo posted this on the go

How would clutch dust get in to a sealed system? I gather that the two hydraulic system share the same reservior.

[yellowrs]

Originally Posted by heymatt

How would clutch dust get in to a sealed system? I gather that the two hydraulic system share the same reservior.

That is correct.

[jd10013]

Originally Posted by heymatt

How would clutch dust get in to a sealed system?

it doesn't

[tramtwo]

Originally Posted by jd10013

it doesn't

Sure it does on an LS3 with a shared reservoir. Thus the popular mod to separate out the clutch. Much info on this and Corvette site about the issue.

How else would you explain the dirty fluid?

tramtwo posted this on the go

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by heymatt

How would clutch dust get in to a sealed system? I gather that the two hydraulic system share the same reservior.

First, they do share a reservoir... Second, dust from the clutch does get into the "sealed" system, via the actuator.

The actuator has to slide through a seal. In most cases, this seal is an o-ring or packer of some type. They are "sealed" systems in that there is minimal transfer through the sealed area. however, even the action of sliding in and out of the actuator housing doesn't completely wipe the actuator rod, and therefore some of the extremely fine dust settles into the fluid on the rod, and is drawn back into the actuator housing and contaminates the fluid. Over time, this contamination migrates through fluid motion up into the reservoir.

That's why the fluid discolors badly... Take that fluid and strain it through a paper towel into a cup... You'll see some of the residue after the fluid drains through remaining on the papertowel...

Most actuators are fairly highly polished... Take an actuator apart after time, and you'll be able to determine exactly where the start and end of travel edges are.... Full extension and full retraction... This is due to contamination creating a sanding effect... Either plan on very regular fluid flushes or go with the seperate fluid reservoir... It'll save you some heartache down the road...