Quote:
Originally Posted by ctrlz
Correct.
My method was pretty primitive and can be easily repeated for the non-Bose.
I used an android app on my phone called ToneGen (freeware). It has a bunch of preset tones. I played them over Bluetooth and used the balance/fader control to isolate some of the speakers. Frankly the door 6x9's are the easiest to isolate because you can open the door and there are no other door-mounted speakers, so you can really hear what the door 6x9's are getting.
You can isolate other speakers by throwing a pile of magazines over them, if you want to hear, for example, what the front center is getting compared to left/right.
None of this is as accurate as using a good SPL meter or oscilloscope, but car audio is loaded with compromises to begin with. The listening environment is obviously noisy, to the point where circuit manufacturers can tolerate relatively high levels of distortion compared to home audio stuff. ST Micro chips are probably in our cars (very common) and their car stuff runs at 10% THD.
http://www.mouser.com/new/stmicroele...da-amplifiers/
So I think my ear test method is probably good enough, and the price is right! |
That is a good test! I can almost guarantee the fronts are getting a full signal in the 1SS non Bose because there are only 4 wires coming from the factory amp to the fronts. They are:
Pin 5 BU Left Front+
Pin 6 YE Right Front+
Pin 13 BN/BU Left Front-
Pin 14 YE/BK Right Front-
On the 1SS non Bose there is probably some sort of crossover at the speaker that send lows to the woofer and highs to tweeter. Component speakers should be the way to go. On the Bose they have either done the same thing with a crossover or they have sent a separate set of speaker wires from the Bose amp to the tweeter and separate set to the door woofer with the amp sending 40-200hz through the woofer wires and highs through the tweeter wires.