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TheBrightSide · 03-02-2024, 05:27 PM

Am I able to remove the coolant fitting on the 10-15 SS engines, with the headers or exhaust manifolds still in place? It looks like a tight fit to get through, but some people have stated that they are better off with the front driver side wheel off, as well as that fender liner removed.

I currently have some 1-7/8” long tube headers in the way, and I’m debating on whether or not to remove them all the way; as loosening them partially probably won’t help too much…

I got a metric 34mm hex socket for the coolant fitting to be loosened; and people say they’ve used huge crescent wrenches and whatnot, but that sounds like a job with the headers OFF all the way. I most likely have to unclip/undo the coolant line from the fitting, and then I’ll be able to place the socket over it.

I also purchased the OEM replacement brass plug that has a metric 17mm allen hex head. Will be using teflon tape on it, and it also came with dried orange thread locker on it; hoping I’ll be good and no leaks will come of this install…

I’ve heard horror stories of 10-11 SS’ with the TSB for replacing CROSS-THREADED coolant fittings in the engine block; forcing people with bad coolant leaks, to have their whole engine block replaced under factory warranty. Yikes.

03-02-2024, 05:27 PM	#1
TheBrightSide Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT) Join Date: Jan 2024 Location: Sacramento, CA - USA Posts: 52	LS3/L99 Factory oil cooler delete: Removal of coolant fitting on engine block Am I able to remove the coolant fitting on the 10-15 SS engines, with the headers or exhaust manifolds still in place? It looks like a tight fit to get through, but some people have stated that they are better off with the front driver side wheel off, as well as that fender liner removed. I currently have some 1-7/8” long tube headers in the way, and I’m debating on whether or not to remove them all the way; as loosening them partially probably won’t help too much… I got a metric 34mm hex socket for the coolant fitting to be loosened; and people say they’ve used huge crescent wrenches and whatnot, but that sounds like a job with the headers OFF all the way. I most likely have to unclip/undo the coolant line from the fitting, and then I’ll be able to place the socket over it. I also purchased the OEM replacement brass plug that has a metric 17mm allen hex head. Will be using teflon tape on it, and it also came with dried orange thread locker on it; hoping I’ll be good and no leaks will come of this install… I’ve heard horror stories of 10-11 SS’ with the TSB for replacing CROSS-THREADED coolant fittings in the engine block; forcing people with bad coolant leaks, to have their whole engine block replaced under factory warranty. Yikes.