LSA Conversion Help
I finished doing my lsa conversion
This morning I installed an email tune done by RDP with an sct 4x. When finished I turned on the vehicle it took a while since gas had to run back to the lines. Everything was perfect and took it out for a spin two miles down the road the car posted a sign saying Engine Power Reduced. I would press on the pedal and it wouldn't accelerate. The engine started shaking a lot. When I got home after 3 miles parked the car in the garage opened the hood and everything was really hot. checked the engine light with the SCTx4 and it throws out codes P0068 and P0106. Car starts but shakes Camaro brothers any suggestions or how can I fix Thanks a mil. |
Do you have a pictures of your install? Curious on how you installed the intercooler pump and if the fuse for the pump may have blown. Also, if it ran fine before and doesn't now then check all your connections might have burned through harness wire.
Haven't got a chance to check what those codes are yet but I would start with what's above. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
LSA Conversion Help
I think 0068 is the MAP sensor. I assume you used the ZL1 that came with the kit, right?
Check your wire extensions also. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Manifold absolute pressure po106
Map/MAF p0068 |
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I read on hp turner forum that if I disconnect battery for 10min it should work again
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As Test_Eng said, ch your fuse for the intercooler pump - also, make sure you've purge the intercooler coolant. The intercooler pump should be running when you turn the switch 'on'. You'll want to verify 'flow' in the reservoir before starting.
Since you had to extend the wires on the MAP, double check that you wired those correctly (unless you purchased the pnp connectors). I'm assuming you extended those.... For the MAF, did you route the IAT to the IAT2 location or did you keep in in the same place? Also, did you drain the engine coolant and, if so, did you make sure to 'burp' it for any trapped air? Best to double check the items you did first and verify those... -Don |
Thanks everyone I will start one by one
Mr. Hammdo on the IAT I left it in the same place Checked the fuse on Pump and it's not burned opened the reservoir and you could see the water flowing and pump turns on as soon as I turn the key even though car is not on I will double check on engine coolant I don't think I fully purge thanks again |
well the intercooler pump is working and fuses aren't burnt
I erased the codes and car is running so I began to burp the engine coolent it did need more antifreeze I will keep burping till full I will check the wire extensions later on, haven't taken the car out yet again also every time I turn the car on the first try it wont start I have to do it twice before the car starts, is it cause no fuel was running to the engine and is also clearing any air on the new fuel lines? |
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I'd double check the wires you extended and the purging of the radiator. I would then run the car with the radiator cap off until you've purged all the air out. Be careful doing that so you don't splash coolant...
once purged, put the cap on then run the car for about 10 minutes and watch the temp on the d.i.c... After you are sure the coolant is good and the temps are stable, make sure your coolant fans come on to keep the temps in check. If they don't, you'll need to make sure your fans are connected... -Don |
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thanks, im trying to get a video clip of the sound will try later on when you purge the radiator do you start the vehicle or just turn the heat on until with out car running have an awesome fathers day |
Start the car with the cap off, turn on the heater so it can purge, that is the key. The car will really overheat if you have any air trapped. You want to make sure the thermostat opens and keep adding coolant until all the air is out... Just be careful as you add coolant...
-Don |
Cold start could also be in the tune. I had Ryan from GPI adjust it a couple of times. You'll want to log your cold start so Steve can see what it's doing.
-Don |
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