More M6 gear grind issues..
 

I have a hurst short throw and lately I've been having the hardest time ever shifting from 1st to 2nd and mostly 2nd to 3rd gear. I'd say 65% of the time I can't get it into gear under a WOT pull. It grinds and blocks me into neutral. Once it actually got caught in third and grinded until I pulled it back into neutral.

I've seen this posted before but haven't heard about any fix. I've taken it to the dealer before when it was happening a lot less often and they couldn't replicate the issue, but that was before it got this bad.

Any ideas?

Upgrade tranny fluids and change brake/clutch fluid. See if this helps.

All that has been changed with the clutch. I probably should of mentioned I have a spec stage 3 plus clutch and flywheel, tick remote bleeder and a monster billet release bearing support. It's a hci and soon to be nitrous car. Only 2500 mi on the build so far

How many miles over all on motor? A lot of hard runs on the tranny? May be synchros going bad.

I'm at about 30k on the tranny. Motor was rebuilt this year. I noticed I've tried power shifting and it's easier to do that than granny shift. I'm hoping it's not the synchros. Even if I shift really slow a lot of times it still locks me out of 3rd.

spec stage 3 plus clutch. :frown: That's probably your issue. I heard bad things about this brand.

Yeah me to from the people who used their old flywheel. That's why I bought the clutch and flywheel kit. I guess time will tell. I wouldn't think the clutch would cause the gear grind unless it's not fully disengaging.

Spec brand pressure plate may not be up to par. Did you install a new pilot bearing?

I reused my pilot bearing since it only had 27000 miles on it. Probably should've though. How would I be able to tell if the pressure plate is the issue?

Now it's mainly 3rd gear. When I granny shift it into 3rd, the shifter goes into gear and it grinds for a moment and as it's grinding when I give it gas it revs up like it's in a neutral state (Almost like an automatic transmission that won't move the car when the gear is going out) then after maybe 5 seconds it engage and moves the car. Praying that this transmission isn't toast

This may be a good read. It covers manual transmissions pretty good, clutch to short shifters.
http://www.rsgear.com/blog/2011/5/23...-failures.aspx

With your miles you should not be having any issue with grinding and would ditch the POS Hurst for a MGW in a heartbeat being that hey a missed shift with a POS shifter can really cost you...I know from personal experience unfortunately. And others have upgraded from the Hurst with great reports in the past I read here, if you could find some MGW threads, any way I love mine. Heck I would give you my stock sloppy shifter for free but I would not wish it on anyone. , and Wow reusing stuff can get hard on parts , knowing what I know I would check your slave and throwout bearing support. Monster makes a good billet bearing support most use as plastic in a hot trans connected to a hot plastic slave with a plastic support sliding on it and hot engine connected, has on pics I have seen even melted the slave a little even and the support to garbage if it happens. Spec is a brand I could get from my local Oreilys, you see that tells me NAH.... cheaper clutches will often perform worse but yours sounds more like a hydraulic problem and you most likely have no remote bleeder on your slave or separate clutch reservoir to change out and maybe a thrashed slave from the miles on it that should have been changed out or at least its support.
But not having faith in the ability to positively lock into gates the trans a shifter is just waiting to F up your engine, and Hurst has not had the best rep as in price is good but quality...MEH... Anyway theres some stuff to think about, Good Luck
I had about 18 K on my stock bearing support and mine was OK but with a new engine I got a monster LT1S clutch that is only 700 rwhp for the dual disc and performance and its just like stock only better. To go along with it I made sure I was to get the bearing support because I had seen old posts years back of screwed up slaves and supports years ago from members, and a remote bleeder , I already had a separate reservoir. And the Lt1s was able to use the stock slave for a SS, as in many clutches need a new slave for varied designs..... Now if the spec needed a new slave? what condition the shifter linkage is in or the mounting of it? what condition the slave and throw out bearing and its support? Anyway I could not be happier with the clutch: no chatter stock feel for pressure to engage. And never a slip. And the shifter is a friggin work of art...LOL

I have the black with red number ball on a retro shifter.
BTW you should not be "granny" shifting into third like as in lugging the engine that promotes stall and bucking and of course problems like oh not being able to hit a gear as the thing needs to be treated like a engine with a stall speed for the trans....mine is about 1500 as that's my take off rpm, idle is 950 for me.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...maro&FORM=VDRE

That was a really good read. I'm probably going to switch my shifter.

I have the bearing support and remote bleeder. I'm still using the factory throw out bearing and slave. I'm definitely going to order an mgw now after reading more reviews on it and I like the fact that it's a full replacement. I have the spec stage 3+ it's supposed to be rated at 900ft/lbs of torque so far it seems to be working Okay as far as I can tell at least. I really think this shifter may be causing an issue though especially after seeing your experience too. I would've put the mgw in from the start but I bought the car with the hurst and tried to give it a chance. I guess I'll see what happens after putting the mgw in