LS3/L99 Factory oil cooler delete: Removal of coolant fitting on engine block
 

Am I able to remove the coolant fitting on the 10-15 SS engines, with the headers or exhaust manifolds still in place? It looks like a tight fit to get through, but some people have stated that they are better off with the front driver side wheel off, as well as that fender liner removed.

I currently have some 1-7/8” long tube headers in the way, and I’m debating on whether or not to remove them all the way; as loosening them partially probably won’t help too much…

I got a metric 34mm hex socket for the coolant fitting to be loosened; and people say they’ve used huge crescent wrenches and whatnot, but that sounds like a job with the headers OFF all the way. I most likely have to unclip/undo the coolant line from the fitting, and then I’ll be able to place the socket over it.

I also purchased the OEM replacement brass plug that has a metric 17mm allen hex head. Will be using teflon tape on it, and it also came with dried orange thread locker on it; hoping I’ll be good and no leaks will come of this install…

I’ve heard horror stories of 10-11 SS’ with the TSB for replacing CROSS-THREADED coolant fittings in the engine block; forcing people with bad coolant leaks, to have their whole engine block replaced under factory warranty. Yikes.

I'm not sure but I assume it's possible because they sell the delete kit for it and I believe it doesn't say anything about removing the engine or anything crazy like that. I do believe it will be easier with the wheel removed and the inner fender lining like you said though. Here's a picture of it to help you.

Attachment 1147377

Yes, you can delete the oil cooler without removing the headers. The hardest one to get to is the top bolt of the oil cooler itself.

Here are some notes/pictures I recorded in my build thread when I deleted mine last year.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=87

Yeah, I debated running it without the stock oil cooler/warmer, but since the front bumper was gonna be off and I was doing some other work (replacing top grille and fog lamp housings), I settled on a custom thermostatic oil cooler setup.

I basically just got the parts numbers from Improved Racing and set out to find the OEM parts I needed for cheap. For the oil cooler setup itself, I looked at the list of parts the Mishimoto oil cooler kit had, but settled on a oil cooler feed thermostat that would mount directly to the oil pan feed, instead of the oil filter housing (Mishimoto).

I think I’m pretty set on installing the oil cooler setup, as it’s fairly simple. I attempted to fix the stock oil cooler leak like 3 times before giving up. First time was simply tightening all the bolts, which didn’t help. Second time, I drained the coolant and oil, so I could replace all the gaskets (oil pan feed and oil cooler); this sadly did not help either. I ended up slathering tons of black Permatex RTV 90-minute, oil resistant gasket maker all over the oil cooling block surface itself; this also proved to be futile….

I think the mating surfaces of the oil cooler housing and block are warped/defective, causing it to inevitably leak. I saw it leaking like the 2nd day I checked underneath the car, and was quite frustrated. I brought it back to Chevrolet, and they fcked around with me 3 times; after another time (4th attempt) at a local Chevy STEALERship, I ultimately gave up. They kept telling me that my EXTENDED warranty fine print details stated that, the oil cooler and gaskets for it were a “gray area” regarding warranty fixes/repairs… and that if it gets “worse” from driving it daily, to just bring it back. You damn well know I said, FCK THAT. Worst corporate stealership experience I had with buying a pre-owned nicer car.

When you get started would you take some pictures for us?

Sure. And the main part I wanted to emphasize, was an Improved Racing EGM-114, 200° F degree oil cooler thermostat. I specifically got this over the Mishimoto sandwich oil cooler (I don’t know the specific part # or model of part) thermostat, since I heard those leaked a fair bit.

I also fear that my cheaper AN-10 oil cooler lines (braided stainless steel) will leak at their fittings. However, this is also fear from some other users’ experiences; and some even had their Mishimoto oil cooler lines and cooler fittings/threads leak, especially after heavy, hard driving (track driving, drag racing).

I think I should be pretty set; as I looked up which fuses to pull, in order to prime the engine oil (should be fuses for fuel injectors). I think I’m probably going to pre-fill the oil cooler itself, but I’m not sure about the lines themselves… Maybe someone with experience can chime in? I usually fill the oil filter, but that’s also debatable; and it’s probably not even nearly as important in this case…

I actually have the mishimoto oil cooler kit and I didn't do anything to prime except fill the oil filter and crank the engine until I had oil pressure because the oil pump is already primed. One thing you can do is press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there while cranking it and it won't start until you let off of it. I got the kit without the t-stat because I live in Texas where it doesn't get very cold. And I've had mine for over a year now with no leaks from the kit and up to 80 psi of oil pressure.