PRAY Performance bolt ons and Remote tune gains.
 

Just finished up a remote dyno tune with Gleider Lopez and his 17' 1LE. Big shout out to Gleider and his dyno guy for being such troopers. They would make a pull, send me the log and snap and pic of the fuel curve for me. I would make the adjustment and they would upload them and make and pull. It really worked out well.

Mods are:
PRAY Performance ported stock IM/TB
Roto-fab CAI w/ dry filter
Kooks 1 7/8" catted headers
EFI Tuning Flex Fuel kit 75% E
PRAY Performance Tuning
Next step is PRAY Performance ported heads and 500+rw.

Attachment 904958

Great gains!!

Not just at the top.. all the way through, that is area under the curve.

Awesome! I just ordered your IM/TB for my 1LE. Can't wait!!

Pray badass!!!

Yes!!!!! Im so happy with the result! This car moves!
Thank you Brett for dealing with me and my excessive questioning... before purchase, during installation and after (tuning part). Im definitely looking forward to those heads.

Do you like the 1 7/8 headers on this setup more then the 2" stuff on yours? I'm on the fence on which ones to get. I wanna do forced induction later, so I will do 2" and only do them once most likely.

No, the 1 7/8" were not my choice. I always suggest going with 2". I didn't see any ill effects on the dyno or the track with them.

Thanks for chiming in. I am glad you are happy with the results. I look forward to serving you in the future.

Dont know if you’re talking to Pray or me. However, I too am going boosted soon and the recommendation is 2” BUT to be honest you cant go wrong with either or remember any SC kit you throw on can reach the engines limits before header size will actually make a difference. So IMO if you’re going BIG power levels where you would need forged internals then yeah i would say get the 2” and get every little extra HP you can squeeze. But if you only interested in the power that the stock engine can handle then honestly i would save the extra cash and just get the 1 7/8. But then again im no expert.

How much adjusting to the tune are you having to do with just bolts ons (intakes, tb's, headers). Are you having to adjust the maf tables? I know with the rotofab you don't technically have to. You don't have to give specific details, i'm just wondering how good the stock airflow models and maf sensor and pcm are able to measure higher airflow and airmass accurately with bolt ons.

Just hitting the P.E. tables is adequate. The only thing that changes the modeling any is the headers. But it isn't much. Now if you want to start from scratch and set P.E. to commanded and then adjust the MAF then you will have some work to do. Even the heads don't need a lot of adjustment. Now toss a cam in there and everything changes. Depending on the time I have with the car and how detailed the customer wants the tune to be we can go all the way back to OLSD and start with the VVE table.

Ok thanks for the info. I would think since you shouldn't have to rely on speed density at WOT, high-rpm that the maf should be able to accurately adjust fueling as needed. Now I know speed density based fueling will be inaccurate, I'm just not sure to what degree it will throw off fueling with bolt ons. For part throttle closed loop, O2 sensor feedback should be well enough to compensate. Also I believe the headers will move your O2 sensor and mess with your feedback.

From my experience, and there are those that will argue, but the MAF trails the MAP. Since MAP comes first, having your VVE dialed in is beneficial for transition fueling. I for sure don't want to mess with Dynamics so I try to get the VVE as good as possible. Especially below the High-rpm enable of 4K. But that is just me. At WOT it seems to just be Fuel and Spark. Now we have to factor in Allowable TQ as well but it really all just boils down to Fuel and spark. WOT is easy.